Knots

Introduction

Knowing how to correctly tie knots will serve you well in many areas of wilderness craft, as well as in modern-day living. If you learn to tie different knots, a simple piece of rope or string can have countless helpful applications.
You can use ropes and knots to make all kinds of cool and useful things: hinges, pulleys, winches, weapons, shields, shoes, and even clothing. Knowing how to tie the correct knots will help you climb trees, build shelters, capture fish, and set up rope swings over swimming holes.
In today’s world, it is easy to use things like duct tape and zip ties to fasten things, but these options can only be used one time. Relying on them limits your capabilities. It also disrespects Nature and the Earth by creating unnecessary waste. Rope or cordage, on the other hand, can be reused hundreds of times if you take good care of them.
Choose a knot that sounds interesting to you. Once you can tie it with your eyes closed, move onto another knot until you have tied them all.

Here are a few important terms to learn:

Bight: a section of rope that is bent into a “U” shape and does not cross itself.

Dressing: arranging the rope so the knot is tight, wraps lie neatly next to each other and no parts of the knot are loose or sticking out.

Frapping: loops coiled perpendicularly around a lashing as a means of tightening.

Lashing: when rope is used to secure two or more items together securely.

Loop: a circle in a rope formed by crossing the working end over the rest of the rope.

Standing End: the part of the rope that is not active when tying a knot.

Tail: the small bit of the standing end of your rope that is leftover after tying a knot.

Working End: the part of a rope that is active when tying a knot.

Wrap: wrap the working end of the rope halfway around the main rope for a half wrap. Wrap it all the way around for a full wrap.

Choosing Your Rope

The three most common styles of rope are twisted, braided, and kernmantle (also called core and sheath).

Twisted rope has two or more strands twisted into one. Usually the more strands it has the stronger it will be.

Braided rope has several strands woven together.

Kernmantle rope has a core of fibers for strength and a braided sheath for protection of those inner lines.

Choose a rope that is the right size and strength for the job. If you are doing small handwork that doesn’t have to hold a lot of weight, a smaller line will be easier for tying knots. If you need to hold weight (your body, a crab pot), you want a larger, stronger rope for the job.

Some ropes are made of man-made or synthetic fibers. These tend to be strong for their size, resist rot, and come in every color of the rainbow. Bright ropes are easier to see in nature.

Other ropes are made from natural fibers. While these fibers are more prone to rot, they are still strong enough for any application and they are biodegradable. Natural fibers will biodegrade and not litter the earth for hundreds of years.

Here are some common types of rope:

Thread: small diameter, often used for sewing.

Twine: small diameter, strong thread or string made of two or more strands of hemp, cotton, or nylon twisted together.

Natural

Cordage: small diameter and made of natural material (like nettle fibers).

Cotton: this fluffy fiber has been used by humans for thousands of years. Cotton rope is soft and strong and often used for livestock. Cotton is also used to make small diameter twine.

Jute: this long, soft fiber comes from the jute plant. It’s used to make burlap bags, and if you tease it apart it makes an excellent fire starter.

Manila: made from abacá, a plant from the Philippines, Manila rope is extremely durable, flexible, and resistant to salt water. This makes it good for boat lines and fishing nets. It shrinks when it gets wet, however, so soak it in water and let it dry before using it.

Rawhide: made from animal hide that hasn’t been tanned, it’s more durable than leather, but gets stiff and hard when dry and isn’t effective when wet. Rawhide is used to make many things, including a cowboy rope called a reata.

Sisal: made from the sisal plant, it was traditionally used for baling twine. It is softer and smoother than Manila rope, but also weaker and will absorb more moisture.

Thong: a thin strip of animal hide or leather used for binding or lashing.

Withe: a strong, flexible twig (often willow) used for lashing, basket making and weaving.

Synthetic

Line: very small diameter monofilament or braided fishing line made of plastic.

Nylon: stretchy and durable, it is good for pulleys and winches. It absorbs water but stays strong, which also makes it a great choice for maritime uses.

Parachute cord: originally for parachute lines, it has an inner core of nylon strands protected by a sheath of tightly woven nylon fibers. It’s great for climbing and spelunking because of its tensile strength and resistance to shock and abrasion.

Polypropylene: often used in water because it floats and resists rotting. It also comes in lots of colors, for when you need a rope that is easy to see. However, it’s more prone to melting from friction heat and it doesn’t return to normal size after it’s stretched.

Polyester: often considered to be the best general purpose rope. It’s affordable and resistant to the elements. It’s often used around the house, like clotheslines.

Webbing: a flat woven rope made from various synthetic materials. Webbing is commonly used to make backpack straps and seat belts.

Knots That Stop

Overhand Knot
The overhand knot is perhaps the most basic of all knots. When most people hear the phrase “tie a knot in it,” this is the knot they are thinking of. When a load is applied to it, this knot tends to tighten so much that it is difficult or impossible to untie. It is best to use it when your knot will be permanent.

Figure Eight Knot
This is another common stopper knot that is easy to untie. It is also the base for other, more complicated knots.