http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Ryan 2026-04-28T19:09:03Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.31.6 http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=287 2021-03-24T19:27:44Z

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Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=286 2021-03-24T19:27:18Z

<p>Ryan: /* Fire Basics */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Chemical Fire, Potassium Permanganate<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> [[File:Fire Lays and Configurations.jpg|thumb|Common fire lays and configurations]]<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> <br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Include your students in the preparation of the stage and all of the fire safety. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=285 2021-03-24T19:26:47Z

<p>Ryan: /* Introduction */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Chemical Fire, Potassium Permanganate<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> [[File:Fire Lays and Configurations.jpg|thumb|Common fire lays and configurations]]<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> <br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Include your students in the preparation of the stage and all of the fire safety. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Flint_and_Steel&diff=284 2021-03-24T19:26:20Z

<p>Ryan: /* Flint and Steel Fire Starting */</p> <hr /> <div></div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=MediaWiki:Sidebar&diff=283 2020-10-20T21:59:06Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>* Trackers Earth Wiki<br /> **Main_Page|Main Page<br /> ** The_4_Guilds|The Four Guilds<br /> **Trackers_Lore|Trackers Lore<br /> **Theme Manuals|Theme Manuals<br /> **Skills|Skills Documents<br /> **General_Content|General Content<br /> *Navigation<br /> ** bs-allpages-url|bs-allpages-description</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=282 2020-10-20T21:58:34Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>== '''Trackers Earth Wiki''' ==<br /> ''Our Common Purpose is greater connection to community, nature, our heritage, and future.''<br /> ==== [[The_4_Guilds|The 4 Guilds]] ====<br /> The four guilds section provides pages with information about each specific guild, including, ethos, programs taught, and relevant skills and activities. This includes the '''[[Rangers Guild]]''', the '''[[Wilders Guild]]''', the '''[[Mariners Guild]]''', and the '''[[Artisans Guild]]'''. This section also includes other programs that aren't guild specific, such as [[Rovers|'''Rovers''']].<br /> ==== [[Trackers_Lore|Trackers Lore]] ====<br /> ==== [[Theme Manuals]] ====<br /> This page lists all available Theme Manuals organization wide for Summer Camps.<br /> ==== [[Skills|Skills Documents]] ====<br /> Skills documents include history, how-to guides, activities, and teaching recommendations for specific skills organization wide. Examples include [[Archery]], [[Camouflage]], [[Fishing]], or [[Basketry]]<br /> ==== [[General Content]] ====<br /> General content includes sample large group activities, behavior management strategies, Trackers policies, ice breakers, and other information that is not guild or skill specific.<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=MediaWiki:Sidebar&diff=280 2020-10-20T21:57:13Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>* Trackers Earth Wiki<br /> **Main_Page|Main Page<br /> ** The_4_Guilds|The Four Guilds<br /> **TrackersLore|Trackers Lore<br /> **Theme Manuals|Theme Manuals<br /> **Skills|Skills Documents<br /> **General_Content|General Content<br /> *Navigation<br /> ** bs-allpages-url|bs-allpages-description</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=279 2020-05-20T20:21:19Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Chemical Fire, Potassium Permanganate<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> [[File:Fire Lays and Configurations.jpg|thumb|Common fire lays and configurations]]<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> <br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Include your students in the preparation of the stage and all of the fire safety. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=278 2020-05-13T20:39:11Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> [[File:Fire Lays and Configurations.jpg|thumb|Common fire lays and configurations]]<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> <br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Include your students in the preparation of the stage and all of the fire safety. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=File:Fire_Lays_and_Configurations.jpg&diff=277 2020-05-13T20:38:57Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>A series of common fire lays.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=276 2020-05-13T20:21:08Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> <br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Include your students in the preparation of the stage and all of the fire safety. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=275 2020-05-08T19:30:27Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Include your students in the preparation of the stage and all of the fire safety. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=274 2020-05-08T19:20:18Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> Fire is a tool that demands great respect, attention, and safety considerations at all times. Fire can burn down a home, a structure, an entire forest, if mismanaged. Fire can harm the user as well, either by accident or negligence. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The hazards that come with fire are what making staging fire activities so critical. If a fire is staged well, the risk is mitigated substantially. Here are some strategies for successfully staging a fire:<br /> * Well executed fire break<br /> * Mindfully crafted fire ring<br /> * No trees or low hanging branches directly above the fire<br /> * 5 Gallon bucket filled with water nearby for emergencies<br /> * A rake to keep the fire break clear<br /> * A shovel to churn the fire and cool it off / rebuild any necessary areas<br /> * Attention to detail and clearly set boundaries for participants in the fire area<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> Fire is exciting. It is part of our connection to nature, and helps us remember what it is to be human in the natural world. It provides warmth and place, and creates the environment for story and connection to one another. It can also give us the heat needed to cook food and share. All of this is possible with student participants, as long as clear boundaries and expectations are set up front, and a watchful eye maintains supervision over the group throughout the duration of the entire activity. It can be helpful to help children understand that fire demands respect and is a powerful tool that we must use carefully. Talking about forest fires and the devastation that fire can bring is a strong way to connect that understanding.<br /> === Fire based activities ===<br /> '''Story Telling'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Survival Scenarios<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Creating Fire by various ignition methods<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Wood gathering - Busy Beavers<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Five minute fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rainy Day fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Cooking Fires<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=273 2020-05-08T19:11:46Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Matches &amp; Lighters''' - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Steel Wool / Electrical''' - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ferrocerium Rods''' - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Flint and Steel''' - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Friction Fire''' - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Because this skill has been passed down for generations all the way from our early human ancestors to modern times, fire by friction also offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with personal milestones, coordination among groups, and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> '''Teepee'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Log Cabin'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Star Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Siberian Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Upside Down Fire'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Lean-To'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Key-hole'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Dakota Fire Hole<br /> === Accelerants Coal Extenders ===<br /> '''Accelerants''' are powerful. They are often highly combustible gasoline-like hydrocarbons that make it easier for a fire to start by lowering how much heat is needed to ignite. Examples of fire accelerants include petroleum distillates (vaseline), turpentine, gasoline, alcohols, kerosene, and gases like propane and butane. In our programs, it is generally not applicable or relevant to teach fire starting with the help of accelerants, but they can provide an important conceptual understanding.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coal Extenders''' are materials that allow a coal or tinder bundle to stay hot for longer to help dry out wet materials and increase your odds having successful ignition. Examples of coal extenders include punk wood (rotten wood), tinder fungi, fluffy seed heads, and some plant materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Below are some examples of natural materials that can be used as accelerants and coal extenders for fires in emergency situations, poor weather, or fire teaching concepts:<br /> '''Fatwood / Pitchwood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Birch Bark'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Punk Wood'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder Fungi'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mugwort'''<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> === Fire based activities ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=272 2020-05-08T18:50:53Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Matches &amp; Lighters - Matches and lighters are generally accepted as modern ignition methods, and can be seen in nearly every home. They are reliable and simple to use, and easy to find success with. If you have not made many fires, it is recommended to begin with these methods so you can first focus on understanding the core of what fires need before worrying about advanced techniques. Use the lighter or matches to ignite the tinder bundle at the base of your fire set up. Please see our pages on Matches &amp; Lighters for information on using these ignition techniques and working with kids.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Steel Wool / Electrical - When an electrical current flows through a material, the electrons moving through the medium collide with other atoms. This is called resistance, and gives off heat. This can be observed in your home when you feel a lamp that is getting hot. If the right materials are chosen, an electrical fire can be started by intentionally overheating the materials with electrical current. The most popular example of this is done by taking fine steel wool (very fibrous, much like a tinder bundle), and forcing contact with a 9V battery. The battery will pass a current through the steel wool, and before long it will glow red. When it gets hot enough, this glowing red steel wool can be placed into a tinder bundle and ignite it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Ferrocerium Rods - (Not to be confused with Flint and Steel) Is often called the metal match. Ferrocerium Rods are composed of iron (ferro) and cerium, both metals. When these rods are struck with something hard and sharp (such as a striker, knife spine, or sharp rock), material is removed from the metal rod and flies off into the atmosphere. The oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the exposed metal, stealing electrons from it and giving off energy as heat. These small heat particles can burn at temperatures of up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, work in all weather conditions, and can be aimed at tinder source with skill and practice. Ferrocerium Rods are a widely accepted, modern method of fire ignition, especially among survivalists when lighter fuel has run out or matches have become soaked. Please visit our page on Ferrocerium Rods for more information on using them with children.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint and Steel - Flint and steel is an ancient method of fire ignition. This method of fire starting incorporates a rock or mineral with very high sharpness, such as flint, chert, chalcedony, agate, or jasper, combined with iron pyrite (fool’s gold) or marcasite. The edge of one of the high sharpness minerals is struck with the pyrite, causing small fragments of iron to be removed from the body of the pyrite. When this happens, the oxygen in the air rapidly oxidizes the iron, giving off energy, which can be seen in the form of small glowing orange particles. Flint and steel sparks are not nearly as hot in temperature as sparks from Ferrocerium. In order to have successful ignition, charred plant fibers must be used in conjunction with the sparks, and then placed into a tinder bundle to start a fire. This method requires more practice and skill than any of the methods listed above, as well as additional materials preparation. Please visit our flint and steel and char cloth pages for more information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Friction Fire - Fire by friction is often though of as the most ancient and primitive means of starting fires by human kind. While there is debate among archaeologists regarding the first controlled usage of fire by friction as a means of fire control, strong evidence exists for nomadic groups utilizing the hand drill method 150,000 years ago. There are several well known methods for creating fire by friction throughout the world, but the two most widely used and known are the Hand Drill and the Bow Drill. Each of these methods utilize a spindle rotating at high speeds, paired with a base board of soft wood to create high heat and fine dust particles. When the temperature of the surfaces reaches a hot enough temperature, the dust particles ignite and coalesce, forming a small glowing ember. This ember can be transferred to a tinder bundle to ignite a fire. Fire by friction is often considered a special milestone for fire wielders; it requires a high level of dedication, both in knowledge, practice, and skill. Mastery of these techniques requires many trials (and failures), and have nearly limitless possibilities and combinations for success. These methods also require knowledge of working wood and plant identification. Additionally, fire by friction offers a ceremonious aspect as well, and is often associated with coordination among groups and cultural value. For more information about Friction fire, please visit the documents describing the methods listed above.<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> === Coal Extenders ===<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> === Fire based activities ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=271 2020-05-08T18:14:36Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once the fire has stabilized (you are not concerned about it going out at any moment, and you don't have to baby it), you can start to build up it's strength with fuel. Add fuel diagonally, always make sure to criss-cross so you don't block airflow. Similar to tetris or jenga, you want to build your fire up with fuel by finding spaces to lean the fuel on, incrementally increasing in size as the fire grows. At this stage, you need to think to the future about how long you want your fire to last and what size fuel will achieve that goal. These estimations become easier with experience and trial.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Congratulations, you have now made a fire! These principles remain mostly the same across many fire building techniques and strategies, but things won't always be perfect. Practice using different ignition methods, different configurations, different starting materials, and different weather conditions. Building a fire can be a challenge even for the most experienced veterans if the right conditions present themselves, so always practice and remember what a fire needs to thrive.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> Simply put, ignition methods are ways to input the &quot;heat&quot; component into your fire to get it started. There are a myriad of ways you can ignite a fire, but we'll start with the most common and work our way back to some of the most complex and most ancient.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Matches &amp; Lighters<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> === Coal Extenders ===<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> === Fire based activities ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=270 2020-05-08T18:06:56Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Begin by collecting all of your necessary materials up front. Start with tinder. As you're hiking and moving about, grab grasses, seed fluffs, peeling barks, and begin working your tinder bundle with your hands to soften it and increase the surface area. In adverse weather conditions, your tinder will be the most sensitive to absorbing moisture (surface area and small fibers). That's why we begin working on your tinder bundle first, and when it's nearly complete, store it near your chest inside your coat or sweater to help keep it dry, or dry it out further. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, we must gather kindling. Check under the protective canopies of large conifers, such as Douglas Firs and Hemlocks, for dead hanging branches. Find the smallest pencil lead size twigs and collect as many of them as you can. The best materials are as dry as possible. Seasoned, dry woods snap and break easily when you test them. Finding ample kindling is essential; fires most often fail at the kindling stage. The tinder bundle will take off with a blazing flame, and the fire does not have enough kindling to carry on, the kindling material is too large, or the kindling material is too wet. When you believe you have gathered sufficient kindling, double it. It will only help, and it may save you if your fire begins to fail. Kindling can also be stored inside your coat or sweater to dry off, but it is a bit more cumbersome. It may only be possible to do this with your best pieces.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that you have kindling, it's time for the big stuff. Search for the driest fuel possible, which is generally dead standing logs and branches. A helpful tip for identifying them is to seek long crack marks in the wood, called checks, beneath bark that has been removed or at ends of branches. These checks reveal that the moisture inside of the wood has escaped because the pressure build up was too great, and split the wood open so it could be released. Gather fuels of various sizes, thumb thickness, all the way up to logs. Only gather logs that match the size of the fire you wish to create. If you want to make a stealth ranger fire, you will not need bigger branches.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> It is now time to organize all of your materials and set up your fire space. Keep that tinder bundle in your coat, but have it ready to go. Place like sizes together, and if it is raining or snowing, try to keep your materials covered under a tap, overhang, or tree canopy. Make sure that you establish a clean firebreak- that is, a flat circle free of debris, detritus, and other duff that could easily catch on fire from a jumping spark and cause a forest fire. You can use a shovel, a rake, your foot, or wood branches to create this space. Proceed and establish a ring for your fire in the center of your fire break. Adding depth to this fire ring under the Earth will make it safer but also limit airflow, so keep that in mind. Rocks, bricks, and other fire resistant structures can be added to increase safety and barriers that stop the fire from escaping. With experience and expert control, these may not be necessary, but remember, fire always requires a watchful eye and respect. For best practices working as a teacher and with students, especially in fire seasons, always use fire rings and fire breaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now that our fire break and fire ring are in place, it's time to build a &quot;raft.&quot; A raft is a collection of materials that keep your fire setup off the surface of the ground. This is because the ground is damp, wet, cold, and will immediately transfer all of your heat to the rest of the Earth's crust upon contact. A raft can be as simple as 4 or 5 sticks laying on the ground to set your materials on.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next, it's time for a brace. A brace is a wall or stick that you can lean kindling material on to create structure and provide airflow. You may have been doing this already, or seen others do it, but a brace can be the structure choice that makes or breaks your fire from happening. Of course, a fire can be successful in other ways, or without a brace, but this is a tested strategy that can be implemented with the fuel you have already gathered.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Continue the operation by removing your tinder bundle from your coat and placing it on the raft. Take a large stack of kindling and lean them on the brace. The kindling should be directly above your tinder bundle. This is because as the tinder bundle ignites, the heat, flames, and air will flow upward into the kindling. This will dry your kindling out and cause them to catch and build in strength and heat. Choose your ignition method of choice (see section below) and light your tinder. As the kindling begins to crackle and smoke pours out, add more kindling. It can be helpful to criss-cross the direction of kindling pieces so they don't fall through and your fire can maintain structural integrity. This also maximizes airflow and will have the fire blistering quite quickly. It may require several rounds of criss-cross kindling adds, don't be afraid to pile it on. At the same time, pay attention to your fire and be sure no to smother it or add more kindling than it can handle. A common sign of this is when the flames cease and smoke pours out. There are few gaps between pieces and the fire can't breath. Or you may not have enough heat to keep the reaction going. Evaluate your triangle of fire and determine exactly what your fire needs. If it can't breath, try fanning it with a hat or spacing out your materials to let air through. If heat is your issue, you may have to start over and reignite, or you may be able to add more heat in certain areas with a lighter or matches. If your fuel is the problem (too big, too wet) try different pieces or begin making small wood shavings and adding them in to save your existing fire.<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> === Coal Extenders ===<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> === Fire based activities ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=269 2020-05-08T17:22:15Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> There are nearly unlimited ways to create a fire. This document will suggest a few options based on the core concepts of fire making described above, along with several other considerations, such as weather and extreme circumstances. Please investigate, train, and learn as much as you can about fire making. It can be a very gratifying, lifelong pursuit of mastery.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> === Fire based activities ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=268 2020-05-08T17:19:18Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Fire]]<br /> * [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> * Ferrocerium<br /> * [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> * Fire by Friction<br /> * Matches &amp; Lighters<br /> * Steel wool / Electrical<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> [[Traps]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=267 2020-05-08T17:19:03Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Fire]]<br /> * [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> * Ferrocerium<br /> * [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> * Fire by Friction<br /> * Matches &amp; Lighters<br /> * Steel wool / Electrical<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> [[Traps]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=266 2020-05-08T17:17:27Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Fire]]<br /> * Ferrocerium<br /> * [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> * Fire by Friction<br /> * Matches &amp; Lighters<br /> * Steel wool / Electrical<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> [[Traps]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=265 2020-05-08T17:17:15Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Fire]]<br /> * Ferrocerium<br /> * [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> * Fire by Friction<br /> * Matches &amp; Lighters<br /> * Steel wool / Electrical<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> [[Traps]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=264 2020-05-08T17:14:08Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Fire Basics ===<br /> Creating fire requires three things:<br /> # Fuel/Organic material<br /> # Oxygen - (from the atmosphere)<br /> # Heat - (you or some other source must supply the heat. example could be a spark)<br /> These three components together are often referred to as &quot;The Triangle of Fire.&quot; Without one of the components present, the triangle cannot become complete and you will not successfully have or start a fire. When troubleshooting fire starting or fire building failures, it is essential to evaluate these three constituents and find out what was missing. <br /> ===== 1. Fuel =====<br /> There are three sizes of fuel that we will refer to. '''Tinder,''' '''Kindling,''' and '''Fuel.'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tinder''' - Tinder is generally soft, fibrous plant material with a large surface area. Another fun nickname for this is a bird's nest, or tinder bundle. Some of the best tinder can be made from inner and outer barks, fluffy seed down, plant stalks, and many other natural materials. It is important to learn and try many materials in your area.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kindling''' - Kindling are small branches of wood, roughly pencil lead thickness to pinky finger thickness. Kindling's will be placed above your tinder after ignition to absorb the heat and bring your young fire to the next stage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fuel''' - Fuel is a generic term for wood material larger than pinky thickness in diameter. Some small effective fuels can be as thick as your thumb, and once your fire becomes hot and strong enough, full logs can be applied. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When harvesting tinder, kindling, and fuel, seek the driest material possible. Materials gathered on the ground will be colder, damper, and less ideal than materials gathered standing. Broken and fallen sticks hanging in tree branches are the best because they have the opportunity to dangle and dry, thanks to gravity and the wind. They also have the added benefit of being protected by the canopy of leaves from the trees above them.<br /> ===== 2. Oxygen =====<br /> Fortunately, our atmosphere is comprised of approximately 21% oxygen. This means that when we light our fires, we do not have to add oxygen to our system. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> This does, however, become a problem when our fire is stacked too tightly, and the flow of oxygen is limited; in these instances we need to adjust our materials so oxygen can make contact with the surfaces that are attempting to ignite. There are many strategies for achieving this, and fire designs and shapes will be discussed in a section below.<br /> ===== 3. Heat =====<br /> Thanks to oxygen being readily present and available, our last ingredient for combustion is heat. Theoretically, if the ambient temperature were hot enough, your fire would not need the injection of a heat source (by you) to start. That is why a branch on a bed of coals will eventually lose it's moisture and catch.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> We can add heat to start a fire in a number of ways, but the most common way is with a flame from a match or lighter. We can also use friction, sparks from flint and steel, ferrocerium, or other electrical means. Different methods of heat creation will also be discussed in a dedicated section below.<br /> === Creating Fire ===<br /> === Ignition Methods ===<br /> === Fire Lays &amp; Configurations ===<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> === Working with Kids ===<br /> === Fire based activities ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Fire&diff=263 2020-05-07T18:54:34Z

<p>Ryan: Created page with &quot;=== Introduction === Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earlies...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Fire is the release of energy in the form of heat, light, and other products, as a result of combining oxygen and organic materials with heat. The earliest use of fire by humans or human-related hominids has been debated, but some research suggests controlled use of fires as early as 400,000 years ago.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The number of uses for a fire are virtually limitless. Fire provides a way to manipulate resources, conserve energy, and increase longevity for the user. Here are some examples:<br /> * Cooking food (to conserve calories by breaking down food for us)<br /> * Eliminating / reducing infection from consumed foods<br /> * Providing a light source<br /> * Creating, making, and manipulating tools<br /> * Communication and emergency signaling<br /> * Warmth<br /> * Psychological morale boost<br /> * Protection from animals<br /> * Controlled land management<br /> Fire also has an important ecological role, clearing out the forest floor and changing the landscape in it's wake. Many species have adapted to benefit from forest fires, perpetuating the natural cycle of succession and ecosystem development.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From a modern perspective, fire has become a tool of recreation associated with nature and the outdoors. We teach fire skills because they are of the utmost importance in survival situations, they assist in connecting students with nature, and finding growth and understanding in the connection between humans and the natural world that is greater than us.<br /> === Creating Fire &amp; Fire Basics ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=262 2020-05-07T18:29:00Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Fire]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> [[Traps]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Stalking_and_Movement&diff=261 2020-05-07T16:58:21Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> As you spend more time in nature you will find that we modern humans don’t blend in so well, and more often than not we create a disturbance<br /> when we enter it. To find the reason you need look no further than how we live! Most humans moved out of nature long ago. We have set up towns and cities, and paved our streets. We wear clothing with bright colors and we move way too fast! <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Lets take a trip back in time and visit some of our early ancestors. We will be invisible so we can observe without disturbing them! The first thing you notice is that they do not live in towns and cities the way we do. Our early ancestors were nomadic hunter gatherers. This means that they did not have a permanent place to live. Instead they would move with the seasons. Since Farming does not exist yet, their lifestyle was based on hunting and gathering different food sources depending on the time of year. They would set up a temporary village in a new area and proceed to hunt animals and gather other resources. As the seasons changed, or they noticed their main food sources started to become scarce, they would pack their few belongings up, and move to a new place. By doing this they would always have good sources of food and materials, and they would never fully deplete any resource. By the time they make it back to the same area after completing their circuit, the area would have replenished itself. Our ancestors lived much closer to nature than we do, and they understood how their actions affected the environment. In order to be effective hunter gatherers our ancestors had to blend into their environments. They had to be stealthy and move without making much noise. If they were noisy not only would they not be effective hunters, but throughout much our history we shared the land with large predators who would just as quickly eat us as another animal. If you are reading this now, someone far back in your family tree was a master of stealth and camouflage! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flash forward to modern times. We now live in much larger groups in towns and cities. We have roads for cars and sidewalks to travel on. our lives are busy, and fast paced, much faster than our ancestors. No longer do we have to rely on hunting and gathering to sustain ourselves. We can go to a store and buy foods from all over the world. Because of all these changes we have forgotten how to exist in the natural world. When we do spend time in Nature we tend to move at the same speed we do when we are out and about town. Not only that, but we will also be wearing the same bright clothing that we wear while at home. When we enter nature this way we are an alien presence, and animals will flee or hide. If we want to be part of this world, we are going to need to make some changes to our behavior.<br /> === Movement === <br /> The first, and easiest change to make is how we move in nature. Nature as a whole moves slowly. We humans are on a 24 hour clock, while Natures clock is seasonal. For instance at the time of me writing this it is 3/4 past winter! You don’t need to move at a snails pace in order to blend in better while in the woods, but you need to move slower than you do in your daily life! If you move at half the speed you normally walk that should be good enough for now. Another problem with our fast, modern movements is that it makes us more prone to accidents! Our brain knows this and without you even thinking about it it initiates a secret defense mechanism that I bet you have never noticed. In order to protect our fast moving bodies our brain constantly forces us to look at the ground in front of us. That way we can see anything in our path that may cause us harm. It serves it purpose, but it also steals our awareness from everything else going on around us. So let me ask you a question, If your moving through the woods, and your moving to fast, and your eyes are always staring at the ground in front of you, how do you expect to see any animals?!?! Many times I have gone to a park a sat just off of a main trail. 9 out of 10 people will walk right by you and not notice. There are a few other ways our modern walking style is bad not only for our bodies, but limits our ability to be more a apart of nature. When we move in the “City Shuffle” not only are we moving too fast, but we take giant strides. Your stride is the distance between your steps. When we take big steps we tend to land on our heels and and then slap our toes forward as we move into our next step. This is bad for our bodies because with each step we hit with a lot of force, and it is also very loud. Many animals in the forest have great hearing and when we do the “city shuffle” in the woods, animals will flee or hide long before we see them.<br /> === The Fox Walk ===<br /> Now its time to learn your first movement “form.&quot; It is called the Fox walk. Foxes are one of the most aware, stealthy creatures out there. Foxes are always looking, and listening to their surroundings. Wether they are moving slow, or fast, they do so in a way that creates a minimal disturbance. When we do the Fox walk we want to become the Fox! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now imagine you are standing at the edge of the forest, and you are ready to go for a walk. The first thing we want to do is slow our mind down. In order to be aware of our surroundings we need to be focused and open to them. If we slow our minds down first, our bodies will follow.<br /> Now we are ready to take our first step. Instead of the big, long strides we take when walking down the sidewalk. Shorten your stride to about half the distance. By doing this we will no longer hit with those heavy heel to toe steps. When you place your foot on the ground let the outside edge of your foot hit first, then gently roll your foot flat on the ground. As soon as your foot hits the ground we want to be “listening” to the ground with our feet. If we are trying to be quiet we don’t want to step on anything that will make noise. We want to avoid stepping on dry leaves or sticks, as those noises will give away your position. When we are going slow and using our feet to talk to the ground all of a sudden our brain does not need to protect our body by constantly staring at the ground in front of us. This allows us to have our eyes up, and looking around. When we are moving slowly and quietly and are able to look around all of a sudden we will be aware of our surroundings and we will notice things we would have otherwise passed by. Since we are also being stealthy birds and other animals will not be so quick to run away from us!<br /> As we continue on our walk we want to remember to go slow, keep our eyes up, and feel what we are stepping on before we commit all of our weight to any step. These few, simple things will take us from being a disturbance in nature, to blending in! One thing to take note of. When first starting off with the Fox walk it may be uncomfortable. Your feet might <br /> hurt. This is normal. You have been walking a certain way for most of your life and that is what your body is used to. It will take a little while for your body to adjust to this new movement form.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Footwear'''<br /> In our modern times we have many different types of shoes and boots. Unfortunately the vast majority of them are not good for Fox walking or stalking. Shoes as we know them are a relatively new invention and have only been around for around 500-800 years. We have been walking upright for much much longer. If you study the few hunter-gatherer societies that are left you will see that they spend most of their time barefoot, or in very simple, non bulky foot coverings similar to moccasins. Much of our modern footwear has thick soles and raised heels. These are supposed to protect our feet, but studies have shown that they cause more damage than good. Many footwear companies make “barefoot” shoes these days. Barefoot shoes typically are thin and flexible, and allow you to feel the ground. Its also a good idea to go barefoot whenever possible. The more time we spend barefoot the tougher our feet will become. In the Spring and Summer I spend as much time as possible barefoot, only putting on shoes to go out in public or when I am participating in an activity where there is a potential for injury to my feet.<br /> === Stalking ===<br /> The main difference between the Fox walk and stalking is your speed. The average speed of the fox walk is about a half to a quarter the speed you normally move. Stalking is much slower. Whereas the Fox walk will be our main movement form when in Nature there will be times that we need to stalk. Stalking is used to get close enough to an animal to touch it, or to harvest it with a hunting tool. We will talk about hunting in a different chapter, so for now, we just want to get close enough to an animal or bird to touch it or observe it at close range.<br /> The first thing we want to do when starting our stalk is change our silhouette. When an animals thinks of a human, it probably sees an image in its mind that looks similar to this signs we see on a bathroom door, or a pedestrian crossing sign. When we stalk we want to change our profile so we don’t look so much like an upright walking human. Bend your knees and hunch your back a little bit. When it comes to speed, we want to go super slow! How slow you ask? Approximately a minute per step! At first when you try stalking you may find its hard to do because you will be spending a lot of time on one leg. You may lose your balance and be shaky. Being wobbly and losing your balance will not help you get close to animals. Before you practice actually stalking take some time getting comfortable standing on one leg. An easy way to practice is to stand on one leg anytime you find your self standing in line somewhere. I practice standing on one leg when I am in line at the grocery store, when I am brushing my teeth, even when I am doing the dishes! I cant stress how important this is! One time I was trying to stalk a Deer. I wanted to get close enough to touch it. When I got to within 10 ft, all of a sudden the Deer looked up from what it was feeding on and stared in my direction. I just so happened to be in mid step. For 15 minutes the deer stared at me! it knew something was going on, but couldn’t decide if I was dangerous or not, so it froze. Eventually its discomfort caused it to move on, but i managed to remain balanced on one leg the whole time, while managing to keep my upper body still!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> A few other things to keep in mind when you are stalking, you want to move across the landscape with as few movements as possible. The more movements we make, the greater the chance for you to make a mistake and give away your position. For instance, you only need to pick your feet as high as what you are stalking through. If I am stalking on a well worn path, my feet will only come off the ground about an inch. If I am stalking through brush, I may need to pick i may need to “high step” to get you foot over obstacles. This is also true while doing the Fox walk.<br /> === Stalking and Movement Tips and Tricks ===<br /> There is much more to stalking and movement then how slow you are going, or how you place your feet on the ground. Think of the act of stalking an animal as a game of chess, you must think first, before you move. One of the reasons I love trying to stalk animals is every time you try is unique. Its important to keep a few other things in mind when doing it. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The first is to match you movements to the “ebb and flow” of whats going on around you. Any environment has a certain about of sound and motion going on. This is known as the baseline. Your goal is to make sure your movements, or the noise you are making does not exceed that of the baseline. Many years ago I loved on a farm in the midwest. At one end of the property we had a beautiful marsh that was full of wildlife. there was also a very active set of railroad tracks that ran along the edge of the marsh. One day I was sitting quietly at the edge of the marsh observing my surroundings. There was a Great Blue Heron feeding nearby, a few species of waterfowl feeding in the water, and there was even a Muskrat working on its den nearby. All of a sudden, off in the distance I heard the train coming, the train came flying through going about 75 miles per hour, towing 100+ cars. You would think the animals would flee at all the noise and motion, but they carried on as if nothing happened!! I continued to sit, as I was waiting for a friend to pick me up to go do some work on the other part of the property. I heard my friends truck coming up the nearby road which the animals also ignored. I heard him stop, get out of the truck and close his door. As soon as the sound of his truck door closing reached the ears of the animals there was an explosion of activity! the Heron and the waterfowl all took off, and the muskrat dove underwater! How come the sound of the train did not disturb the animals in the slightest? Why did the sound of the truck door closing scare them? Because the train is a daily occurrence in the marsh, while the sound of a truck door closing is not! Always remember to match your movements to the baseline!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> You also need to remember that animals are many times more aware than we are. They rely on their awareness to stay alive therefore we are at a disadvantage and need to use anything we can to even the odds, which brings me to our next stalking tip.<br /> We need use the landscape to our advantage. I will rarely ever move across open ground in a straight line. instead I will move from an area of cover, to another area of cover. I will use trees, brush lines, boulders, and thickets to conceal me. You can also move from shadow to shadow. I will stop often to look, listen, and feel whats going on around me. Its also good sense to avoid “noisy” areas. Places on the forest floor that have lots of snappy twigs and dead leaves are going to be hard to navigate quietly.<br /> Before I take my fist step into a stalking scenario I will observe the area as a whole and pick out the areas to avoid, while also planning my potential routes. You can also use the weather to your advantage. On a windy day you can get away with making more noise. When a gust of wind comes you can move a bit faster and not worry so much about the noise you are making, but when the gust dies down remember to slow down, or stop and wait for the next gust. Other natural sounds like falling rain, or moving water can be great at hiding any noise you might make. When it comes to wind we need to understand that many animals have amazing senses of smell. Members of the Deer family for instance rely on their sense of smell as their primary means for detecting predators. While me may smell good to each other, we do not smell good to animals. Therefore if we want to get close to animals that have sensitive noses, its important that we approach them from down wind. Down wind means that the when the wind is blowing it is coming from the direction of the animal towards you. <br /> If you are stalking around trees you may find yourself leaning on them for rest and cover. this works great with bigger trees, but be careful with smaller trees and saplings. if you bump into them or lean on them with to much force you may cause the tree to bend and sway un naturally which could give your position away. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> No matter what environment you are in, from the city, to the most remote forest there is a baseline. Anytime you remember to do so no matter where you may be, pay attention to, and understand the baseline.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The next time you are out in Nature pick a place on the landscape 100 feet in front if you. Next, analyze any potential route you can take to reach that point. Look at available cover, areas of shadow, and also pay attention to any obstacles that would be to difficult or noisy to pass.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As you get more comfortable in your stalking and movement practice, try stalking over more difficult terrain. Try stalking across dried leaves as silently as you can. Work on transitioning from crawling on your belly to being back on your feet. If you want to take it to the next level, put on a blind fold and move through the woods.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Stalking_and_Movement&diff=260 2020-05-07T16:57:51Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> As you spend more time in nature you will find that we modern humans don’t blend in so well, and more often than not we create a disturbance<br /> when we enter it. To find the reason you need look no further than how we live! Most humans moved out of nature long ago. We have set up towns and cities, and paved our streets. We wear clothing with bright colors and we move way too fast! <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Lets take a trip back in time and visit some of our early ancestors. We will be invisible so we can observe without disturbing them! The first thing you notice is that they do not live in towns and cities the way we do. Our early ancestors were nomadic hunter gatherers. This means that they did not have a permanent place to live. Instead they would move with the seasons. Since Farming does not exist yet, their lifestyle was based on hunting and gathering different food sources depending on the time of year. They would set up a temporary village in a new area and proceed to hunt animals and gather other resources. As the seasons changed, or they noticed their main food sources started to become scarce, they would pack their few belongings up, and move to a new place. By doing this they would always have good sources of food and materials, and they would never fully deplete any resource. By the time they make it back to the same area after completing their circuit, the area would have replenished itself. Our ancestors lived much closer to nature than we do, and they understood how their actions affected the environment. In order to be effective hunter gatherers our ancestors had to blend into their environments. They had to be stealthy and move without making much noise. If they were noisy not only would they not be effective hunters, but throughout much our history we shared the land with large predators who would just as quickly eat us as another animal. If you are reading this now, someone far back in your family tree was a master of stealth and camouflage! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flash forward to modern times. We now live in much larger groups in towns and cities. We have roads for cars and sidewalks to travel on. our lives are busy, and fast paced, much faster than our ancestors. No longer do we have to rely on hunting and gathering to sustain ourselves. We can go to a store and buy foods from all over the world. Because of all these changes we have forgotten how to exist in the natural world. When we do spend time in Nature we tend to move at the same speed we do when we are out and about town. Not only that, but we will also be wearing the same bright clothing that we wear while at home. When we enter nature this way we are an alien presence, and animals will flee or hide. If we want to be part of this world, we are going to need to make some changes to our behavior.<br /> === Movement === <br /> The first, and easiest change to make is how we move in nature. Nature as a whole moves slowly. We humans are on a 24 hour clock, while Natures clock is seasonal. For instance at the time of me writing this it is 3/4 past winter! You don’t need to move at a snails pace in order to blend in better while in the woods, but you need to move slower than you do in your daily life! If you move at half the speed you normally walk that should be good enough for now. Another problem with our fast, modern movements is that it makes us more prone to accidents! Our brain knows this and without you even thinking about it it initiates a secret defense mechanism that I bet you have never noticed. In order to protect our fast moving bodies our brain constantly forces us to look at the ground in front of us. That way we can see anything in our path that may cause us harm. It serves it purpose, but it also steals our awareness from everything else going on around us. So let me ask you a question, If your moving through the woods, and your moving to fast, and your eyes are always staring at the ground in front of you, how do you expect to see any animals?!?! Many times I have gone to a park a sat just off of a main trail. 9 out of 10 people will walk right by you and not notice. There are a few other ways our modern walking style is bad not only for our bodies, but limits our ability to be more a apart of nature. When we move in the “City Shuffle” not only are we moving too fast, but we take giant strides. Your stride is the distance between your steps. When we take big steps we tend to land on our heels and and then slap our toes forward as we move into our next step. This is bad for our bodies because with each step we hit with a lot of force, and it is also very loud. Many animals in the forest have great hearing and when we do the “city shuffle” in the woods, animals will flee or hide long before we see them.<br /> === The Fox Walk ===<br /> Now its time to learn your first movement “form.&quot; It is called the Fox walk. Foxes are one of the most aware, stealthy creatures out there. Foxes are always looking, and listening to their surroundings. Wether they are moving slow, or fast, they do so in a way that creates a minimal disturbance. When we do the Fox walk we want to become the Fox! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now imagine you are standing at the edge of the forest, and you are ready to go for a walk. The first thing we want to do is slow our mind down. In order to be aware of our surroundings we need to be focused and open to them. If we slow our minds down first, our bodies will follow.<br /> Now we are ready to take our first step. Instead of the big, long strides we take when walking down the sidewalk. Shorten your stride to about half the distance. By doing this we will no longer hit with those heavy heel to toe steps. When you place your foot on the ground let the outside edge of your foot hit first, then gently roll your foot flat on the ground. As soon as your foot hits the ground we want to be “listening” to the ground with our feet. If we are trying to be quiet we don’t want to step on anything that will make noise. We want to avoid stepping on dry leaves or sticks, as those noises will give away your position. When we are going slow and using our feet to talk to the ground all of a sudden our brain does not need to protect our body by constantly staring at the ground in front of us. This allows us to have our eyes up, and looking around. When we are moving slowly and quietly and are able to look around all of a sudden we will be aware of our surroundings and we will notice things we would have otherwise passed by. Since we are also being stealthy birds and other animals will not be so quick to run away from us!<br /> As we continue on our walk we want to remember to go slow, keep our eyes up, and feel what we are stepping on before we commit all of our weight to any step. These few, simple things will take us from being a disturbance in nature, to blending in! One thing to take note of. When first starting off with the Fox walk it may be uncomfortable. Your feet might <br /> hurt. This is normal. You have been walking a certain way for most of your life and that is what your body is used to. It will take a little while for your body to adjust to this new movement form.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Footwear'''<br /> In our modern times we have many different types of shoes and boots. Unfortunately the vast majority of them are not good for Fox walking or stalking. Shoes as we know them are a relatively new invention and have only been around for around 500-800 years. We have been walking upright for much much longer. If you study the few hunter-gatherer societies that are left you will see that they spend most of their time barefoot, or in very simple, non bulky foot coverings similar to moccasins. Much of our modern footwear has thick soles and raised heels. These are supposed to protect our feet, but studies have shown that they cause more damage than good. Many footwear companies make “barefoot” shoes these days. Barefoot shoes typically are thin and flexible, and allow you to feel the ground. Its also a good idea to go barefoot whenever possible. The more time we spend barefoot the tougher our feet will become. In the Spring and Summer I spend as much time as possible barefoot, only putting on shoes to go out in public or when I am participating in an activity where there is a potential for injury to my feet.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stalking'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The main difference between the Fox walk and stalking is your speed. The average speed of the fox walk is about a half to a quarter the speed you normally move. Stalking is much slower. Whereas the Fox walk will be our main movement form when in Nature there will be times that we need to stalk. Stalking is used to get close enough to an animal to touch it, or to harvest it with a hunting tool. We will talk about hunting in a different chapter, so for now, we just want to get close enough to an animal or bird to touch it or observe it at close range.<br /> The first thing we want to do when starting our stalk is change our silhouette. When an animals thinks of a human, it probably sees an image in its mind that looks similar to this signs we see on a bathroom door, or a pedestrian crossing sign. When we stalk we want to change our profile so we don’t look so much like an upright walking human. Bend your knees and hunch your back a little bit. When it comes to speed, we want to go super slow! How slow you ask? Approximately a minute per step! At first when you try stalking you may find its hard to do because you will be spending a lot of time on one leg. You may lose your balance and be shaky. Being wobbly and losing your balance will not help you get close to animals. Before you practice actually stalking take some time getting comfortable standing on one leg. An easy way to practice is to stand on one leg anytime you find your self standing in line somewhere. I practice standing on one leg when I am in line at the grocery store, when I am brushing my teeth, even when I am doing the dishes! I cant stress how important this is! One time I was trying to stalk a Deer. I wanted to get close enough to touch it. When I got to within 10 ft, all of a sudden the Deer looked up from what it was feeding on and stared in my direction. I just so happened to be in mid step. For 15 minutes the deer stared at me! it knew something was going on, but couldn’t decide if I was dangerous or not, so it froze. Eventually its discomfort caused it to move on, but i managed to remain balanced on one leg the whole time, while managing to keep my upper body still!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> A few other things to keep in mind when you are stalking, you want to move across the landscape with as few movements as possible. The more movements we make, the greater the chance for you to make a mistake and give away your position. For instance, you only need to pick your feet as high as what you are stalking through. If I am stalking on a well worn path, my feet will only come off the ground about an inch. If I am stalking through brush, I may need to pick i may need to “high step” to get you foot over obstacles. This is also true while doing the Fox walk.<br /> === Stalking and Movement Tips and Tricks ===<br /> There is much more to stalking and movement then how slow you are going, or how you place your feet on the ground. Think of the act of stalking an animal as a game of chess, you must think first, before you move. One of the reasons I love trying to stalk animals is every time you try is unique. Its important to keep a few other things in mind when doing it. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The first is to match you movements to the “ebb and flow” of whats going on around you. Any environment has a certain about of sound and motion going on. This is known as the baseline. Your goal is to make sure your movements, or the noise you are making does not exceed that of the baseline. Many years ago I loved on a farm in the midwest. At one end of the property we had a beautiful marsh that was full of wildlife. there was also a very active set of railroad tracks that ran along the edge of the marsh. One day I was sitting quietly at the edge of the marsh observing my surroundings. There was a Great Blue Heron feeding nearby, a few species of waterfowl feeding in the water, and there was even a Muskrat working on its den nearby. All of a sudden, off in the distance I heard the train coming, the train came flying through going about 75 miles per hour, towing 100+ cars. You would think the animals would flee at all the noise and motion, but they carried on as if nothing happened!! I continued to sit, as I was waiting for a friend to pick me up to go do some work on the other part of the property. I heard my friends truck coming up the nearby road which the animals also ignored. I heard him stop, get out of the truck and close his door. As soon as the sound of his truck door closing reached the ears of the animals there was an explosion of activity! the Heron and the waterfowl all took off, and the muskrat dove underwater! How come the sound of the train did not disturb the animals in the slightest? Why did the sound of the truck door closing scare them? Because the train is a daily occurrence in the marsh, while the sound of a truck door closing is not! Always remember to match your movements to the baseline!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> You also need to remember that animals are many times more aware than we are. They rely on their awareness to stay alive therefore we are at a disadvantage and need to use anything we can to even the odds, which brings me to our next stalking tip.<br /> We need use the landscape to our advantage. I will rarely ever move across open ground in a straight line. instead I will move from an area of cover, to another area of cover. I will use trees, brush lines, boulders, and thickets to conceal me. You can also move from shadow to shadow. I will stop often to look, listen, and feel whats going on around me. Its also good sense to avoid “noisy” areas. Places on the forest floor that have lots of snappy twigs and dead leaves are going to be hard to navigate quietly.<br /> Before I take my fist step into a stalking scenario I will observe the area as a whole and pick out the areas to avoid, while also planning my potential routes. You can also use the weather to your advantage. On a windy day you can get away with making more noise. When a gust of wind comes you can move a bit faster and not worry so much about the noise you are making, but when the gust dies down remember to slow down, or stop and wait for the next gust. Other natural sounds like falling rain, or moving water can be great at hiding any noise you might make. When it comes to wind we need to understand that many animals have amazing senses of smell. Members of the Deer family for instance rely on their sense of smell as their primary means for detecting predators. While me may smell good to each other, we do not smell good to animals. Therefore if we want to get close to animals that have sensitive noses, its important that we approach them from down wind. Down wind means that the when the wind is blowing it is coming from the direction of the animal towards you. <br /> If you are stalking around trees you may find yourself leaning on them for rest and cover. this works great with bigger trees, but be careful with smaller trees and saplings. if you bump into them or lean on them with to much force you may cause the tree to bend and sway un naturally which could give your position away. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> No matter what environment you are in, from the city, to the most remote forest there is a baseline. Anytime you remember to do so no matter where you may be, pay attention to, and understand the baseline.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The next time you are out in Nature pick a place on the landscape 100 feet in front if you. Next, analyze any potential route you can take to reach that point. Look at available cover, areas of shadow, and also pay attention to any obstacles that would be to difficult or noisy to pass.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As you get more comfortable in your stalking and movement practice, try stalking over more difficult terrain. Try stalking across dried leaves as silently as you can. Work on transitioning from crawling on your belly to being back on your feet. If you want to take it to the next level, put on a blind fold and move through the woods.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Stalking_and_Movement&diff=259 2020-05-06T20:56:06Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> As you spend more time in nature you will find that we modern humans don’t blend in so well, and more often than not we create a disturbance<br /> when we enter it. To find the reason you need look no further than how we live! Most humans moved out of nature long ago. We have set up towns and cities, and paved our streets. We wear clothing with bright colors and we move way too fast! <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Lets take a trip back in time and visit some of our early ancestors. We will be invisible so we can observe without disturbing them! The first thing you notice is that they do not live in towns and cities the way we do. Our early ancestors were nomadic hunter gatherers. This means that they did not have a permanent place to live. Instead they would move with the seasons. Since Farming does not exist yet, their lifestyle was based on hunting and gathering different food sources depending on the time of year. They would set up a temporary village in a new area and proceed to hunt animals and gather other resources. As the seasons changed, or they noticed their main food sources started to become scarce, they would pack their few belongings up, and move to a new place. By doing this they would always have good sources of food and materials, and they would never fully deplete any resource. By the time they make it back to the same area after completing their circuit, the area would have replenished itself. Our ancestors lived much closer to nature than we do, and they understood how their actions affected the environment. In order to be effective hunter gatherers our ancestors had to blend into their environments. They had to be stealthy and move without making much noise. If they were noisy not only would they not be effective hunters, but throughout much our history we shared the land with large predators who would just as quickly eat us as another animal. If you are reading this now, someone far back in your family tree was a master of stealth and camouflage! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flash forward to modern times. We now live in much larger groups in towns and cities. We have roads for cars and sidewalks to travel on. our lives are busy, and fast paced, much faster than our ancestors. No longer do we have to rely on hunting and gathering to sustain ourselves. We can go to a store and buy foods from all over the world. Because of all these changes we have forgotten how to exist in the natural world. When we do spend time in Nature we tend to move at the same speed we do when we are out and about town. Not only that, but we will also be wearing the same bright clothing that we wear while at home. When we enter nature this way we are an alien presence, and animals will flee or hide. If we want to be part of this world, we are going to need to make some changes to our behavior.<br /> === Movement === <br /> The first, and easiest change to make is how we move in nature. Nature as a whole moves slowly. We humans are on a 24 hour clock, while Natures clock is seasonal. For instance at the time of me writing this it is 3/4 past winter! You don’t need to move at a snails pace in order to blend in better while in the woods, but you need to move slower than you do in your daily life! If you move at half the speed you normally walk that should be good enough for now. Another problem with our fast, modern movements is that it makes us more prone to accidents! Our brain knows this and without you even thinking about it it initiates a secret defense mechanism that I bet you have never noticed. In order to protect our fast moving bodies our brain constantly forces us to look at the ground in front of us. That way we can see anything in our path that may cause us harm. It serves it purpose, but it also steals our awareness from everything else going on around us. So let me ask you a question, If your moving through the woods, and your moving to fast, and your eyes are always staring at the ground in front of you, how do you expect to see any animals?!?! Many times I have gone to a park a sat just off of a main trail. 9 out of 10 people will walk right by you and not notice. There are a few other ways our modern walking style is bad not only for our bodies, but limits our ability to be more a apart of nature. When we move in the “City Shuffle” not only are we moving too fast, but we take giant strides. Your stride is the distance between your steps. When we take big steps we tend to land on our heels and and then slap our toes forward as we move into our next step. This is bad for our bodies because with each step we hit with a lot of force, and it is also very loud. Many animals in the forest have great hearing and when we do the “city shuffle” in the woods, animals will flee or hide long before we see them.<br /> === The Fox Walk ===<br /> Now its time to learn your first movement “form.&quot; It is called the Fox walk. Foxes are one of the most aware, stealthy creatures out there. Foxes are always looking, and listening to their surroundings. Wether they are moving slow, or fast, they do so in a way that creates a minimal disturbance. When we do the Fox walk we want to become the Fox! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now imagine you are standing at the edge of the forest, and you are ready to go for a walk. The first thing we want to do is slow our mind down. In order to be aware of our surroundings we need to be focused and open to them. If we slow our minds down first, our bodies will follow.<br /> Now we are ready to take our first step. Instead of the big, long strides we take when walking down the sidewalk. Shorten your stride to about half the distance. By doing this we will no longer hit with those heavy heel to toe steps. When you place your foot on the ground let the outside edge of your foot hit first, then gently roll your foot flat on the ground. As soon as your foot hits the ground we want to be “listening” to the ground with our feet. If we are trying to be quiet we don’t want to step on anything that will make noise. We want to avoid stepping on dry leaves or sticks, as those noises will give away your position. When we are going slow and using our feet to talk to the ground all of a sudden our brain does not need to protect our body by constantly staring at the ground in front of us. This allows us to have our eyes up, and looking around. When we are moving slowly and quietly and are able to look around all of a sudden we will be aware of our surroundings and we will notice things we would have otherwise passed by. Since we are also being stealthy birds and other animals will not be so quick to run away from us!<br /> As we continue on our walk we want to remember to go slow, keep our eyes up, and feel what we are stepping on before we commit all of our weight to any step. These few, simple things will take us from being a disturbance in nature, to blending in! One thing to take note of. When first starting off with the Fox walk it may be uncomfortable. Your feet might <br /> hurt. This is normal. You have been walking a certain way for most of your life and that is what your body is used to. It will take a little while for your body to adjust to this new movement form.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''FOOTWEAR'''<br /> In our modern times we have many different types of shoes and boots. Unfortunately the vast majority of them are not good for Fox walking or stalking. Shoes as we know them are a relatively new invention and have only been around for around 500-800 years. We have been walking upright for much much longer. If you study the few hunter-gatherer societies that are left you will see that they spend most of their time barefoot, or in very simple, non bulky foot coverings similar to moccasins. Much of our modern footwear has thick soles and raised heels. These are supposed to protect our feet, but studies have shown that they cause more damage than good. Many footwear companies make “barefoot” shoes these days. Barefoot shoes typically are thin and flexible, and allow you to feel the ground. Its also a good idea to go barefoot whenever possible. The more time we spend barefoot the tougher our feet will become. In the Spring and Summer I spend as much time as possible barefoot, only putting on shoes to go out in public or when I am participating in an activity where there is a potential for injury to my feet.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''STALKING'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The main difference between the Fox walk and stalking is your speed. The average speed of the fox walk is about a half to a quarter the speed you normally move. Stalking is much slower. Whereas the Fox walk will be our main movement form when in Nature there will be times that we need to stalk. Stalking is used to get close enough to an animal to touch it, or to Harvest it with a hunting tool. We will talk about hunting in a different chapter, so for now, we just want to get close enough to an animal or bird to touch it or observe it at close range.<br /> The first thing we want to do when starting our stalk is change our silhouette. When an animals thinks of a human, it probably sees an image in its mind that looks similar to this signs we see on a bathroom door, or a pedestrian crossing sign. When we stalk we want to change our profile so we don’t look so much like an upright walking human. Bend your knees and hunch your back a little bit. When it comes to speed, we want to go super slow! How slow you ask? Approximately a minute per step! At first when you try stalking you may find its hard to do because you will be spending a lot of time on one leg. You may lose your balance and be shaky. Being wobbly and losing your balance will not help you get close to animals. Before you practice actually stalking take some time getting comfortable standing on one leg. An easy way to practice is to stand on one leg anytime you find your self standing in line somewhere. I practice standing on one leg when I am in line at the grocery store, when I am brushing my teeth, even when I am doing the dishes! I cant stress how important this is! One time I was trying to stalk a Deer. I wanted to get close enough to touch it. When I got to within 10 ft, all of a sudden the Deer looked up from what it was feeding on and stared in my direction. I just so happened to be in mid step. For 15 minutes the deer stared at me! it knew something was going on, but couldn’t decide if I was dangerous or not, so it froze. Eventually its discomfort caused it to move on, but i managed to remain balanced on one leg the whole time, while managing to keep my upper body still!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> A few other things to keep in mind when you are stalking, you want to move across the landscape with as few movements as possible. The more movements we make, the greater the chance for you to make a mistake and give away your position. For instance, you only need to pick your feet as high as what you are stalking through. If I am stalking on a well worn path, my feet will only come off the ground about an inch. If I am stalking through brush, I may need to pick i may need to “high step” to get you foot over obstacles. This is also true while doing the Fox walk.<br /> === Stalking and Movement Tips and Tricks ===<br /> There is much more to stalking and movement then how slow you are going, or how you place your feet on the ground. Think of the act of stalking an animal as a game of chess, you must think first, before you move. One of the reasons I love trying to stalk animals is every time you try is unique. Its important to keep a few other things in mind when doing it. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The first is to match you movements to the “ebb and flow” of whats going on around you. Any environment has a certain about of sound and motion going on. This is known as the baseline. Your goal is to make sure your movements, or the noise you are making does not exceed that of the baseline. Many years ago I loved on a farm in the midwest. At one end of the property we had a beautiful marsh that was full of wildlife. there was also a very active set of railroad tracks that ran along the edge of the marsh. One day I was sitting quietly at the edge of the marsh observing my surroundings. There was a Great Blue Heron feeding nearby, a few species of waterfowl feeding in the water, and there was even a Muskrat working on its den nearby. All of a sudden, off in the distance I heard the train coming, the train came flying through going about 75 miles per hour, towing 100+ cars. You would think the animals would flee at all the noise and motion, but they carried on as if nothing happened!! I continued to sit, as I was waiting for a friend to pick me up to go do some work on the other part of the property. I heard my friends truck coming up the nearby road which the animals also ignored. I heard him stop, get out of the truck and close his door. As soon as the sound of his truck door closing reached the ears of the animals there was an explosion of activity! the Heron and the waterfowl all took off, and the muskrat dove underwater! How come the sound of the train did not disturb the animals in the slightest? Why did the sound of the truck door closing scare them? Because the train is a daily occurrence in the marsh, while the sound of a truck door closing is not! Always remember to match your movements to the baseline!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> You also need to remember that animals are many times more aware than we are. They rely on their awareness to stay alive therefore we are at a disadvantage and need to use anything we can to even the odds, which brings me to our next stalking tip.<br /> We need use the landscape to our advantage. I will rarely ever move across open ground in a straight line. instead I will move from an area of cover, to another area of cover. I will use trees, brush lines, boulders, and thickets to conceal me. You can also move from shadow to shadow. I will stop often to look, listen, and feel whats going on around me. Its also good sense to avoid “noisy” areas. Places on the forest floor that have lots of snappy twigs and dead leaves are going to be hard to navigate quietly.<br /> Before I take my fist step into a stalking scenario I will observe the area as a whole and pick out the areas to avoid, while also planning my potential routes. You can also use the weather to your advantage. On a windy day you can get away with making more noise. When a gust of wind comes you can move a bit faster and not worry so much about the noise you are making, but when the gust dies down remember to slow down, or stop and wait for the next gust. Other natural sounds like falling rain, or moving water can be great at hiding any noise you might make. When it comes to wind we need to understand that many animals have amazing senses of smell. Members of the Deer family for instance rely on their sense of smell as their primary means for detecting predators. While me may smell good to each other, we do not smell good to animals. Therefore if we want to get close to animals that have sensitive noses, its important that we approach them from down wind. Down wind means that the when the wind is blowing it is coming from the direction of the animal towards you. <br /> If you are stalking around trees you may find yourself leaning on them for rest and cover. this works great with bigger trees, but be careful with smaller trees and saplings. if you bump into them or lean on them with to much force you may cause the tree to bend and sway un naturally which could give your position away. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> No matter what environment you are in, from the city, to the most remote forest there is a baseline. Anytime you remember to do so no matter where you may be, pay attention to, and understand the baseline.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The next time you are out in Nature pick a place on the landscape 100 feet in front if you. Next, analyze any potential route you can take to reach that point. Look at available cover, areas of shadow, and also pay attention to any obstacles that would be to difficult or noisy to pass.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As you get more comfortable in your stalking and movement practice. Try stalking over more difficult terrain, try stalking across dried leaves as silently as you can. Work on transitioning from crawling on your belly to being back on your feet. If you want to take it to the next level, put on a blind fold and move through the woods.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Stalking_and_Movement&diff=258 2020-05-06T20:54:02Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> As you spend more time in nature you will find that we modern humans don’t blend in so well, and more often than not we create a disturbance<br /> when we enter it. To find the reason you need look no further than how we live! Most humans moved out of nature long ago. We have set up towns and cities, and paved our streets. We wear clothing with bright colors and we move way too fast! <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Lets take a trip back in time and visit some of our early ancestors. We will be invisible so we can observe without disturbing them! The first thing you notice is that they do not live in towns and cities the way we do. Our early ancestors were nomadic hunter gatherers. This means that they did not have a permanent place to live. Instead they would move with the seasons. Since Farming does not exist yet, their lifestyle was based on hunting and gathering different food sources depending on the time of year. They would set up a temporary village in a new area and proceed to hunt animals and gather other resources. As the seasons changed, or they noticed their main food sources started to become scarce, they would pack their few belongings up, and move to a new place. By doing this they would always have good sources of food and materials, and they would never fully deplete any resource. By the time they make it back to the same area after completing their circuit, the area would have replenished itself. Our ancestors lived much closer to nature than we do, and they understood how their actions affected the environment. In order to be effective hunter gatherers our ancestors had to blend into their environments. They had to be stealthy and move without making much noise. If they were noisy not only would they not be effective hunters, but throughout much our history we shared the land with large predators who would just as quickly eat us as another animal. If you are reading this now, someone far back in your family tree was a master of stealth and camouflage! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flash forward to modern times. We now live in much larger groups in towns and cities. We have roads for cars and sidewalks to travel on. our lives are busy, and fast paced, much faster than our ancestors. No longer do we have to rely on hunting and gathering to sustain ourselves. We can go to a store and buy foods from all over the world. Because of all these changes we have forgotten how to exist in the natural world. When we do spend time in Nature we tend to move at the same speed we do when we are out and about town. Not only that, but we will also be wearing the same bright clothing that we wear while at home. When we enter nature this way we are an alien presence, and animals will flee or hide. If we want to be part of this world, we are going to need to make some changes to our behavior.<br /> === Movement === <br /> The first, and easiest change to make is how we move in nature. Nature as a whole moves slowly. We humans are on a 24 hour clock, while Natures clock is seasonal. For instance at the time of me writing this it is 3/4 past winter! You don’t need to move at a snails pace in order to blend in better while in the woods, but you need to move slower than you do in your daily life! If you move at half the speed you normally walk that should be good enough for now. Another problem with our fast, modern movements is that it makes us more prone to accidents! Our brain knows this and without you even thinking about it it initiates a secret defense mechanism that I bet you have never noticed. In order to protect our fast moving bodies our brain constantly forces us to look at the ground in front of us. That way we can see anything in our path that may cause us harm. It serves it purpose, but it also steals our awareness from everything else going on around us. So let me ask you a question, If your moving through the woods, and your moving to fast, and your eyes are always staring at the ground in front of you, how do you expect to see any animals?!?! Many times I have gone to a park a sat just off of a main trail. 9 out of 10 people will walk right by you and not notice. There are a few other ways our modern walking style is bad not only for our bodies, but limits our ability to be more a apart of nature. When we move in the “City Shuffle” not only are we moving too fast, but we take giant strides. Your stride is the distance between your steps. When we take big steps we tend to land on our heels and and then slap our toes forward as we move into our next step. This is bad for our bodies because with each step we hit with a lot of force, and it is also very loud. Many animals in the forest have great hearing and when we do the “city shuffle” in the woods, animals will flee or hide long before we see them.<br /> === The Fox Walk ===<br /> Now its time to learn your first movement “form.&quot; It is called the Fox walk. Foxes are one of the most aware, stealthy creatures out there. Foxes are always looking, and listening to their surroundings. Wether they are moving slow, or fast, they do so in a way that creates a minimal disturbance. When we do the Fox walk we want to become the Fox! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now imagine you are standing at the edge of the forest, and you are ready to go for a walk. The first thing we want to do is slow our mind down. In order to be aware of our surroundings we need to be focused and open to them. If we slow our minds down first, our bodies will follow.<br /> Now we are ready to take our first step. Instead of the big, long strides we take when walking down the sidewalk. Shorten your stride to about half the distance. By doing this we will no longer hit with those heavy heel to toe steps. When you place your foot on the ground let the outside edge of your foot hit first, then gently roll your foot flat on the ground. As soon as your foot hits the ground we want to be “listening” to the ground with our feet. If we are trying to be quiet we don’t want to step on anything that will make noise. We want to avoid stepping on dry leaves or sticks, as those noises will give away your position. When we are going slow and using our feet to talk to the ground all of a sudden our brain does not need to protect our body by constantly staring at the ground in front of us. This allows us to have our eyes up, and looking around. When we are moving slowly and quietly and are able to look around all of a sudden we will be aware of our surroundings and we will notice things we would have otherwise passed by. Since we are also being stealthy birds and other animals will not be so quick to run away from us!<br /> As we continue on our walk we want to remember to go slow, keep our eyes up, and feel what we are stepping on before we commit all of our weight to any step. These few, simple things will take us from being a disturbance in nature, to blending in! One thing to take note of. When first starting off with the Fox walk it may be uncomfortable. Your feet might <br /> hurt. This is normal. You have been walking a certain way for most of your life and that is what your body is used to. It will take a little while for your body to adjust to this new movement form.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''FOOTWEAR'''<br /> In our modern times we have many different types of shoes and boots. Unfortunately the vast majority of them are not good for Fox walking or stalking. Shoes as we know them are a relatively new invention and have only been around for around 500-800 years. We have been walking upright for much much longer. If you study the few hunter-gatherer societies that are left you will see that they spend most of their time barefoot, or in very simple, non bulky foot coverings similar to moccasins. Much of our modern footwear has thick soles and raised heels. These are supposed to protect our feet, but studies have shown that they cause more damage than good. Many footwear companies make “barefoot” shoes these days. Barefoot shoes typically are thin and flexible, and allow you to feel the ground. Its also a good idea to go barefoot whenever possible. The more time we spend barefoot the tougher our feet will become. In the Spring and Summer I spend as much time as possible barefoot, only putting on shoes to go out in public or when I am participating in an activity where there is a potential for injury to my feet.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''STALKING'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The main difference between the Fox walk and stalking is your speed. The average speed of the fox walk is about a half to a quarter the speed you normally move. Stalking is much slower. Whereas the Fox walk will be our main movement form when in Nature there will be times that we need to stalk. Stalking is used to get close enough to an animal to touch it, or to Harvest it with a hunting tool. We will talk about hunting in a different chapter, so for now, we just want to get close enough to an animal or bird to touch it or observe it at close range.<br /> The first thing we want to do when starting our stalk is change our silhouette. When an animals thinks of a human, it probably sees an image in its mind that looks similar to this signs we see on a bathroom door, or a pedestrian crossing sign. When we stalk we want to change our profile so we don’t look so much like an upright walking human. Bend your knees and hunch your back a little bit. When it comes to speed, we want to go super slow! How slow you ask? Approximately a minute per step! At first when you try stalking you may find its hard to do because you will be spending a lot of time on one leg. You may lose your balance and be shaky. Being wobbly and losing your balance will not help you get close to animals. Before you practice actually stalking take some time getting comfortable standing on one leg. An easy way to practice is to stand on one leg anytime you find your self standing in line somewhere. I practice standing on one leg when I am in line at the grocery store, when I am brushing my teeth, even when I am doing the dishes! I cant stress how important this is! One time I was trying to stalk a Deer. I wanted to get close enough to touch it. When I got to within 10 ft, all of a sudden the Deer looked up from what it was feeding on and stared in my direction. I just so happened to be in mid step. For 15 minutes the deer stared at me! it knew something was going on, but couldn’t decide if I was dangerous or not, so it froze. Eventually its discomfort caused it to move on, but i managed to remain balanced on one leg the whole time, while managing to keep my upper body still!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> A few other things to keep in mind when you are stalking, you want to move across the landscape with as few movements as possible. The more movements we make, the greater the chance for you to make a mistake and give away your position. For instance, you only need to pick your feet as high as what you are stalking through. If I am stalking on a well worn path, my feet will only come off the ground about an inch. If I am stalking through brush, I may need to pick i may need to “high step” to get you foot over obstacles. This is also true while doing the Fox walk.<br /> === STALKING AND MOVEMENT TIPS AND TRICKS ===<br /> There is much more to stalking and movement then how slow you are going, or how you place your feet on the ground. Think of the act of stalking an animal as a game of chess, you must think first, before you move. One of the reasons I love trying to stalk animals is every time you try is unique. Its important to keep a few other things in mind when doing it. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The first is to match you movements to the “ebb and flow” of whats going on around you. Any environment has a certain about of sound and motion going on. This is known as the baseline. Your goal is to make sure your movements, or the noise you are making does not exceed that of the baseline. Many years ago I loved on a farm in the midwest. At one end of the property we had a beautiful marsh that was full of wildlife. there was also a very active set of railroad tracks that ran along the edge of the marsh. One day I was sitting quietly at the edge of the marsh observing my surroundings. There was a Great Blue Heron feeding nearby, a few species of waterfowl feeding in the water, and there was even a Muskrat working on its den nearby. All of a sudden, off in the distance I heard the train coming, the train came flying through going about 75 miles per hour, towing 100+ cars. You would think the animals would flee at all the noise and motion, but they carried on as if nothing happened!! I continued to sit, as I was waiting for a friend to pick me up to go do some work on the other part of the property. I heard my friends truck coming up the nearby road which the animals also ignored. I heard him stop, get out of the truck and close his door. As soon as the sound of his truck door closing reached the ears of the animals there was an explosion of activity! the Heron and the waterfowl all took off, and the muskrat dove underwater! How come the sound of the train did not disturb the animals in the slightest? Why did the sound of the truck door closing scare them? Because the train is a daily occurrence in the marsh, while the sound of a truck door closing is not! Always remember to match your movements to the baseline!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> You also need to remember that animals are many times more aware than we are. They rely on their awareness to stay alive therefore we are at a disadvantage and need to use anything we can to even the odds, which brings me to our next stalking tip.<br /> We need use the landscape to our advantage. I will rarely ever move across open ground in a straight line. instead I will move from an area of cover, to another area of cover. I will use trees, brush lines, boulders, and thickets to conceal me. You can also move from shadow to shadow. I will stop often to look, listen, and feel whats going on around me. Its also good sense to avoid “noisy” areas. Places on the forest floor that have lots of snappy twigs and dead leaves are going to be hard to navigate quietly.<br /> Before I take my fist step into a stalking scenario I will observe the area as a whole and pick out the areas to avoid, while also planning my potential routes. You can also use the weather to your advantage. On a windy day you can get away with making more noise. When a gust of wind comes you can move a bit faster and not worry so much about the noise you are making, but when the gust dies down remember to slow down, or stop and wait for the next gust. Other natural sounds like falling rain, or moving water can be great at hiding any noise you might make. When it comes to wind we need to understand that many animals have amazing senses of smell. Members of the Deer family for instance rely on their sense of smell as their primary means for detecting predators. While me may smell good to each other, we do not smell good to animals. Therefore if we want to get close to animals that have sensitive noses, its important that we approach them from down wind. Down wind means that the when the wind is blowing it is coming from the direction of the animal towards you. <br /> If you are stalking around trees you may find yourself leaning on them for rest and cover. this works great with bigger trees, but be careful with smaller trees and saplings. if you bump into them or lean on them with to much force you may cause the tree to bend and sway un naturally which could give your position away. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> No matter what environment you are in, from the city, to the most remote forest there is a baseline. Anytime you remember to do so no matter where you may be, pay attention to, and understand the baseline.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The next time you are out in Nature pick a place on the landscape 100 feet in front if you. Next, analyze any potential route you can take to reach that point. Look at available cover, areas of shadow, and also pay attention to any obstacles that would be to difficult or noisy to pass.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As you get more comfortable in your stalking and movement practice. Try stalking over more difficult terrain, try stalking across dried leaves as silently as you can. Work on transitioning from crawling on your belly to being back on your feet. If you want to take it to the next level, put on a blind fold and move through the woods.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Stalking_and_Movement&diff=257 2020-05-06T20:53:04Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> As you spend more time in nature you will find that we modern humans don’t blend in so well, and more often than not we create a disturbance<br /> when we enter it. To find the reason you need look no further than how we live! Most humans moved out of nature long ago. We have set up towns and cities, and paved our streets. We wear clothing with bright colors and we move way too fast! <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Lets take a trip back in time and visit some of our early ancestors. We will be invisible so we can observe without disturbing them! The first thing you notice is that they do not live in towns and cities the way we do. Our early ancestors were nomadic hunter gatherers. This means that they did not have a permanent place to live. Instead they would move with the seasons. Since Farming does not exist yet, their lifestyle was based on hunting and gathering different food sources depending on the time of year. They would set up a temporary village in a new area and proceed to hunt animals and gather other resources. As the seasons changed, or they noticed their main food sources started to become scarce, they would pack their few belongings up, and move to a new place. By doing this they would always have good sources of food and materials, and they would never fully deplete any resource. By the time they make it back to the same area after completing their circuit, the area would have replenished itself. Our ancestors lived much closer to nature than we do, and they understood how their actions affected the environment. In order to be effective hunter gatherers our ancestors had to blend into their environments. They had to be stealthy and move without making much noise. If they were noisy not only would they not be effective hunters, but throughout much our history we shared the land with large predators who would just as quickly eat us as another animal. If you are reading this now, someone far back in your family tree was a master of stealth and camouflage! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flash forward to modern times. We now live in much larger groups in towns and cities. We have roads for cars and sidewalks to travel on. our lives are busy, and fast paced, much faster than our ancestors. No longer do we have to rely on hunting and gathering to sustain ourselves. We can go to a store and buy foods from all over the world. Because of all these changes we have forgotten how to exist in the natural world. When we do spend time in Nature we tend to move at the same speed we do when we are out and about town. Not only that, but we will also be wearing the same bright clothing that we wear while at home. When we enter nature this way we are an alien presence, and animals will flee or hide. If we want to be part of this world, we are going to need to make some changes to our behavior.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Movement === <br /> The first, and easiest change to make is how we move in nature. Nature as a whole moves slowly. We humans are on a 24 hour clock, while Natures clock is seasonal. For instance at the time of me writing this it is 3/4 past winter! You don’t need to move at a snails pace in order to blend in better while in the woods, but you need to move slower than you do in your daily life! If you move at half the speed you normally walk that should be good enough for now. Another problem with our fast, modern movements is that it makes us more prone to accidents! Our brain knows this and without you even thinking about it it initiates a secret defense mechanism that I bet you have never noticed. In order to protect our fast moving bodies our brain constantly forces us to look at the ground in front of us. That way we can see anything in our path that may cause us harm. It serves it purpose, but it also steals our awareness from everything else going on around us. So let me ask you a question, If your moving through the woods, and your moving to fast, and your eyes are always staring at the ground in front of you, how do you expect to see any animals?!?! Many times I have gone to a park a sat just off of a main trail. 9 out of 10 people will walk right by you and not notice. There are a few other ways our modern walking style is bad not only for our bodies, but limits our ability to be more a apart of nature. When we move in the “City Shuffle” not only are we moving too fast, but we take giant strides. Your stride is the distance between your steps. When we take big steps we tend to land on our heels and and then slap our toes forward as we move into our next step. This is bad for our bodies because with each step we hit with a lot of force, and it is also very loud. Many animals in the forest have great hearing and when we do the “city shuffle” in the woods, animals will flee or hide long before we see them.<br /> === The Fox Walk ===<br /> Now its time to learn your first movement “form.&quot; It is called the Fox walk. Foxes are one of the most aware, stealthy creatures out there. Foxes are always looking, and listening to their surroundings. Wether they are moving slow, or fast, they do so in a way that creates a minimal disturbance. When we do the Fox walk we want to become the Fox! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now imagine you are standing at the edge of the forest, and you are ready to go for a walk. The first thing we want to do is slow our mind down. In order to be aware of our surroundings we need to be focused and open to them. If we slow our minds down first, our bodies will follow.<br /> Now we are ready to take our first step. Instead of the big, long strides we take when walking down the sidewalk. Shorten your stride to about half the distance. By doing this we will no longer hit with those heavy heel to toe steps. When you place your foot on the ground let the outside edge of your foot hit first, then gently roll your foot flat on the ground. As soon as your foot hits the ground we want to be “listening” to the ground with our feet. If we are trying to be quiet we don’t want to step on anything that will make noise. We want to avoid stepping on dry leaves or sticks, as those noises will give away your position. When we are going slow and using our feet to talk to the ground all of a sudden our brain does not need to protect our body by constantly staring at the ground in front of us. This allows us to have our eyes up, and looking around. When we are moving slowly and quietly and are able to look around all of a sudden we will be aware of our surroundings and we will notice things we would have otherwise passed by. Since we are also being stealthy birds and other animals will not be so quick to run away from us!<br /> As we continue on our walk we want to remember to go slow, keep our eyes up, and feel what we are stepping on before we commit all of our weight to any step. These few, simple things will take us from being a disturbance in nature, to blending in! One thing to take note of. When first starting off with the Fox walk it may be uncomfortable. Your feet might <br /> hurt. This is normal. You have been walking a certain way for most of your life and that is what your body is used to. It will take a little while for your body to adjust to this new movement form.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''FOOTWEAR'''<br /> In our modern times we have many different types of shoes and boots. Unfortunately the vast majority of them are not good for Fox walking or stalking. Shoes as we know them are a relatively new invention and have only been around for around 500-800 years. We have been walking upright for much much longer. If you study the few hunter-gatherer societies that are left you will see that they spend most of their time barefoot, or in very simple, non bulky foot coverings similar to moccasins. Much of our modern footwear has thick soles and raised heels. These are supposed to protect our feet, but studies have shown that they cause more damage than good. Many footwear companies make “barefoot” shoes these days. Barefoot shoes typically are thin and flexible, and allow you to feel the ground. Its also a good idea to go barefoot whenever possible. The more time we spend barefoot the tougher our feet will become. In the Spring and Summer I spend as much time as possible barefoot, only putting on shoes to go out in public or when I am participating in an activity where there is a potential for injury to my feet.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''STALKING'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The main difference between the Fox walk and stalking is your speed. The average speed of the fox walk is about a half to a quarter the speed you normally move. Stalking is much slower. Whereas the Fox walk will be our main movement form when in Nature there will be times that we need to stalk. Stalking is used to get close enough to an animal to touch it, or to Harvest it with a hunting tool. We will talk about hunting in a different chapter, so for now, we just want to get close enough to an animal or bird to touch it or observe it at close range.<br /> The first thing we want to do when starting our stalk is change our silhouette. When an animals thinks of a human, it probably sees an image in its mind that looks similar to this signs we see on a bathroom door, or a pedestrian crossing sign. When we stalk we want to change our profile so we don’t look so much like an upright walking human. Bend your knees and hunch your back a little bit. When it comes to speed, we want to go super slow! How slow you ask? Approximately a minute per step! At first when you try stalking you may find its hard to do because you will be spending a lot of time on one leg. You may lose your balance and be shaky. Being wobbly and losing your balance will not help you get close to animals. Before you practice actually stalking take some time getting comfortable standing on one leg. An easy way to practice is to stand on one leg anytime you find your self standing in line somewhere. I practice standing on one leg when I am in line at the grocery store, when I am brushing my teeth, even when I am doing the dishes! I cant stress how important this is! One time I was trying to stalk a Deer. I wanted to get close enough to touch it. When I got to within 10 ft, all of a sudden the Deer looked up from what it was feeding on and stared in my direction. I just so happened to be in mid step. For 15 minutes the deer stared at me! it knew something was going on, but couldn’t decide if I was dangerous or not, so it froze. Eventually its discomfort caused it to move on, but i managed to remain balanced on one leg the whole time, while managing to keep my upper body still!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> A few other things to keep in mind when you are stalking, you want to move across the landscape with as few movements as possible. The more movements we make, the greater the chance for you to make a mistake and give away your position. For instance, you only need to pick your feet as high as what you are stalking through. If I am stalking on a well worn path, my feet will only come off the ground about an inch. If I am stalking through brush, I may need to pick i may need to “high step” to get you foot over obstacles. This is also true while doing the Fox walk.<br /> === STALKING AND MOVEMENT TIPS AND TRICKS ===<br /> There is much more to stalking and movement then how slow you are going, or how you place your feet on the ground. Think of the act of stalking an animal as a game of chess, you must think first, before you move. One of the reasons I love trying to stalk animals is every time you try is unique. Its important to keep a few other things in mind when doing it. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The first is to match you movements to the “ebb and flow” of whats going on around you. Any environment has a certain about of sound and motion going on. This is known as the baseline. Your goal is to make sure your movements, or the noise you are making does not exceed that of the baseline. Many years ago I loved on a farm in the midwest. At one end of the property we had a beautiful marsh that was full of wildlife. there was also a very active set of railroad tracks that ran along the edge of the marsh. One day I was sitting quietly at the edge of the marsh observing my surroundings. There was a Great Blue Heron feeding nearby, a few species of waterfowl feeding in the water, and there was even a Muskrat working on its den nearby. All of a sudden, off in the distance I heard the train coming, the train came flying through going about 75 miles per hour, towing 100+ cars. You would think the animals would flee at all the noise and motion, but they carried on as if nothing happened!! I continued to sit, as I was waiting for a friend to pick me up to go do some work on the other part of the property. I heard my friends truck coming up the nearby road which the animals also ignored. I heard him stop, get out of the truck and close his door. As soon as the sound of his truck door closing reached the ears of the animals there was an explosion of activity! the Heron and the waterfowl all took off, and the muskrat dove underwater! How come the sound of the train did not disturb the animals in the slightest? Why did the sound of the truck door closing scare them? Because the train is a daily occurrence in the marsh, while the sound of a truck door closing is not! Always remember to match your movements to the baseline!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> You also need to remember that animals are many times more aware than we are. They rely on their awareness to stay alive therefore we are at a disadvantage and need to use anything we can to even the odds, which brings me to our next stalking tip.<br /> We need use the landscape to our advantage. I will rarely ever move across open ground in a straight line. instead I will move from an area of cover, to another area of cover. I will use trees, brush lines, boulders, and thickets to conceal me. You can also move from shadow to shadow. I will stop often to look, listen, and feel whats going on around me. Its also good sense to avoid “noisy” areas. Places on the forest floor that have lots of snappy twigs and dead leaves are going to be hard to navigate quietly.<br /> Before I take my fist step into a stalking scenario I will observe the area as a whole and pick out the areas to avoid, while also planning my potential routes. You can also use the weather to your advantage. On a windy day you can get away with making more noise. When a gust of wind comes you can move a bit faster and not worry so much about the noise you are making, but when the gust dies down remember to slow down, or stop and wait for the next gust. Other natural sounds like falling rain, or moving water can be great at hiding any noise you might make. When it comes to wind we need to understand that many animals have amazing senses of smell. Members of the Deer family for instance rely on their sense of smell as their primary means for detecting predators. While me may smell good to each other, we do not smell good to animals. Therefore if we want to get close to animals that have sensitive noses, its important that we approach them from down wind. Down wind means that the when the wind is blowing it is coming from the direction of the animal towards you. <br /> If you are stalking around trees you may find yourself leaning on them for rest and cover. this works great with bigger trees, but be careful with smaller trees and saplings. if you bump into them or lean on them with to much force you may cause the tree to bend and sway un naturally which could give your position away. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> No matter what environment you are in, from the city, to the most remote forest there is a baseline. Anytime you remember to do so no matter where you may be, pay attention to, and understand the baseline.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The next time you are out in Nature pick a place on the landscape 100 feet in front if you. Next, analyze any potential route you can take to reach that point. Look at available cover, areas of shadow, and also pay attention to any obstacles that would be to difficult or noisy to pass.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As you get more comfortable in your stalking and movement practice. Try stalking over more difficult terrain, try stalking across dried leaves as silently as you can. Work on transitioning from crawling on your belly to being back on your feet. If you want to take it to the next level, put on a blind fold and move through the woods.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Traps&diff=256 2020-05-06T20:45:17Z

<p>Ryan: Created page with &quot;=== Introduction ===&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=255 2020-05-06T20:44:53Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fire<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> [[Traps]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Rovers_Forest_Ninja&diff=254 2020-05-06T20:42:23Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> ''Explore the forest with your ninja teachers and team. Play fun stealth games and learn martial arts movement from our local animals. Stretch like the otter, leap like the deer, and run like the coyote!''<br /> === Learning Objectives ===<br /> We create an entire atmosphere to embrace the way of the ninja. <br /> * Different movement for a healthy body <br /> * Meditation for a healthy mind<br /> * Bird language to strengthen intuition and learn the ways of nature<br /> * Martial Arts of self defense<br /> * Stealth and camouflage for ninja missions <br /> === Embrace the Way of the Ninja ===<br /> * Teach kids about respect, flow, patience, listening, the art of being quietly effective, and the benefits of stealth.<br /> * Teach them the lifestyle of the ninja: how to be one with all things.<br /> === Bring in your favorite fictional ninja/Zen-like characters ===<br /> * Yoda<br /> * Kung Fu Panda<br /> * Ninja Turtles<br /> * Lego Ninjago characters<br /> Ask the kids who their favorite ninja characters are and find out about them so you can bring them into camp.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> This camp is rather unique. It is a beautiful balance of movement and stillness, combat and peace, and it is an opportunity for all campers to become one with the natural environment around them.<br /> === Morning Movements ===<br /> * Yoga<br /> * Martial arts<br /> * Calisthenics<br /> * Animal shapes<br /> === Weaponry ===<br /> * Boffer swords<br /> * Pool noodles<br /> * Punching pads<br /> * Throwing stars<br /> * Staff<br /> * Nunchucks<br /> * Bow and arrows<br /> === Stealth and Stalking ===<br /> * Learn to move silently through the wood so you cannot be detected<br /> * Sneak up on faeries or elven habitats<br /> * Fox walk<br /> * Camouflage: 3 Ds - dull, dapple, duff<br /> * Eagle eye<br /> === Obstacle Course ===<br /> End of the week activity<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Create from a week’s worth of activities: now is the time to use the skills you have learned<br /> === Other Activities ===<br /> * Slack Line<br /> * Tea Ceremonies<br /> * Meditations<br /> * Sit spots</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Rovers_Forest_Ninja&diff=253 2020-05-06T20:37:59Z

<p>Ryan: Created page with &quot;Rovers Forest Ninja Explore the forest with your ninja teachers and team. Play fun stealth games and learn martial arts movement from our local animals. Stretch like the ott...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Rovers Forest Ninja <br /> <br /> Explore the forest with your ninja teachers and team. Play fun stealth games and learn martial arts movement from our local animals. Stretch like the otter, leap like the deer, and run like the coyote!<br /> <br /> Learning Objective: We create an entire atmosphere to embrace the way of the ninja. <br /> Different movement for a healthy body <br /> Meditation for a healthy mind<br /> Bird language to strengthen intuition and learn the ways of nature<br /> Martial Arts of self defense<br /> Stealth and camouflage for ninja missions <br /> <br /> Embrace the Way of the Ninja<br /> Teach kids about respect, flow, patience, listening, the art of being quietly effective, and the benefits of stealth.<br /> Teach them the lifestyle of the ninja: how to be one with all things.<br /> Bring in your favorite fictional ninja/Zen-like characters: Yoda, Kung Fu Panda, Ninja Turtles, Lego Ninjago characters. Ask the kids who their favorite ninja characters are and find out about them so you can bring them into camp.<br /> This camp is rather unique. It is a beautiful balance of movement and stillness, combat and peace, and it is an opportunity for all campers to become one with the natural environment around them.<br /> <br /> Morning Movements<br /> Yoga<br /> Martial arts<br /> Calisthenics<br /> Animal shapes<br /> <br /> Weaponry<br /> Boffer swords<br /> Pool noodles<br /> Punching pads<br /> Throwing stars<br /> Staff<br /> Nunchucks<br /> Bow and arrows<br /> <br /> Stealth and Stalking: learn to move silently through the wood so you cannot be detected<br /> Sneak up on faeries or elven habitats<br /> Fox walk<br /> Camouflage: 3 Ds - dull, dapple, duff<br /> Eagle eye<br /> <br /> Obstacle Course<br /> End of the week activity<br /> Create from a week’s worth of activities: now is the time to use the skills you have learned<br /> <br /> Other Activities<br /> Slack Line<br /> Tea Ceremonies<br /> Meditations<br /> Sit spots</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Rovers&diff=252 2020-05-06T20:37:45Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>==== Rovers ====<br /> Grade K-1 ''Insert Rovers Blurb here''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Full Day Camps run our normal camp times. They are typically transported by school bus to outdoor locations.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ===== Rovers Full Day Camps =====<br /> '''[[Faeries, Elves &amp; Mostly Friendly Dragons]]''': Journey through the Realms, learning the ways of Nature from Faeries and Elves. Discover the story magic of the Mostly Friendly Dragons who dwell in the enchanted woods.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rovers Ranch: Farm &amp; Forest''': Visit local ranches and homesteads to meet our animal friends who live there. Learn how to care for all creatures of the Trackers Farm and Forest. Tend to gardens and track the wildlife through the woodland.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Forest Foragers: Berries &amp; More!''' Under the guidance of our naturalist educators, young Trackers harvest seasonal berries, vegetables from the garden and edible forest plants. They prepare berry desserts and local foods for a natural feast.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rovers Survival: Forts &amp; Friends''' Learn awesome wilderness survival skills. Build a fort with your team. Learn fun wilderness skills of navigation, shelter, water and outdoor cooking.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rovers Survival: Stealth &amp; Archery''' Our expert educators take campers on a fantastic survival adventure. Guided by our forest rangers and teachers, learn archery and play fun games of forest stealth.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''[[Rovers Forest Ninja]]''' Explore the forest with your ninja teachers and team. Play fun stealth games and learn martial arts movement from our local animals. Stretch like the otter, leap like the deer, and run like the coyote!<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rivers, Creeks &amp; Crawdads!''' Journey to creeks, rivers and lakes. Hunt and fish for crawdads and other water creatures. Learn all about outdoor cooking and safe water play.<br /> ===== Half Day Camps =====<br /> 9:00 AM - 11:30 PM (Morning) and 11:30 PM - 2 PM (Afternoon). They are based out of our pick-up &amp; drop-off sites.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Grade K-1 Learn to Ride''': Road Rovers Experienced instructors teach biking basics in a safe and fun environment. We provide bikes and helmets.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Grade K-1 Art of Nature''': Quests, Crafts &amp; Games Create fantastic arts and crafts from drawing to woodworking projects. Go on map &amp; compass quests playing fun games with new friends.<br /> ===== Skills and Activities =====<br /> ''List of rovers activities or links to pages here''<br /> ===== Behavior Management Strategies and Rovers Best Practices =====<br /> ''Insert listed links to documents on strategies for specifics, best practices etc (or could all be listed here)''</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=251 2020-05-05T15:59:47Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fire<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> Traps<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=250 2020-05-05T15:59:32Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fire<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Tracking<br /> * [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> * [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Traps<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Faeries,_Elves_%26_Mostly_Friendly_Dragons&diff=249 2020-05-05T15:54:55Z

<p>Ryan: Created page with &quot;Faeries, Elves, and Mostly Friendly Dragons Journey through the Realms, learning the ways of Nature from Faeries and Elves. Discover the story magic of the Mostly Friendly Dra...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Faeries, Elves, and Mostly Friendly Dragons<br /> Journey through the Realms, learning the ways of Nature from Faeries and Elves. Discover the story magic of the Mostly Friendly Dragons who dwell in the enchanted woods. We are taking Trackers skills and giving them a magical twinkle.<br /> <br /> Tea Parties are all about setting the scene to have a magical time with magical characters. It can be used to settle down the energy and tell stories. Learning Objective: plant identification, how to make: tea, butter, and jam, history of tea parties throughout different cultures. <br /> <br /> Tea Party<br /> Collect edible plants for tea: Nettles, Cleavers, Chickweed, Berries (black berries, thimble berries, salmon berries), Wild mint (Mentha arvensis), Spearmint (Mentha spicata) and Peppermint (Mentha piperita), Western Hemlock tips, wild rose petals<br /> Make butter: pour buttermilk into a jar, put lid on tight, and shake vigorously.<br /> Provide crackers<br /> Make blackberry jam by squishing berries with clean hands in a bowl or use spoon. Optional berry squish for each cracker.<br /> Feel free to make this special like a ceremony, celebration, party<br /> <br /> Shelter Building: To learn the basics of creating an effective, survival shelter out of natural materials that can sustain life in multiple conditions. Build in a story - how big are the faeries that are going to live here? What are their essential needs as faeries? Use your imagination and the imagination of your students.<br /> Faery Shelters<br /> Using shelter forms (A frame and lean )<br /> Use materials from nature that is on the ground (sticks, fallen leaves, lichen) <br /> Important to build on level ground away from staging insect nests<br /> Look up! Is there anything that will fall on the shelters?<br /> Why do we need shelter? To stay warm: explore different kinds of heat and shelters.<br /> Encourage kids not to harvest materials from living plants<br /> Break down shelters after building them: either at the time or by the end of the day...counter tracking your shelter materials<br /> Make as creative and elaborate as you like<br /> <br /> Crafts are a great way for children to practice their dexterity and use their imaginations. Learning Objective: Plant ID with the harvested flowers, learn how to follow a recipe, practice dexterity, using imagination with making each bead different.<br /> Faery Beads<br /> Make a mixture of flour, salt, and water. Knead until smooth. Add in flower petals.<br /> Each kids makes a tiny ball and then sticks a toothpick in center (please assist)<br /> Let beads dry for 24hrs<br /> Make a drawing of necklace/bracelet so kids have a “blue print” of what they will make the next day <br /> Create bracelet or necklace from beads<br /> <br /> Woodworking Skills: this is an excellent activity to get the kids to have their first ever experience with a knife. SAFETY is #1 !!! Learning Objectives: teach about sustainable harvesting of trees, tree ID, history of woodworking, step by step knife carving skills (Trackers style), do magic with the new wand<br /> Wand making<br /> Collect sticks or harvest a tree sustainably<br /> Knife carving with Rover Step By Step:<br /> Can use sandpaper in the hovels to shape as well as markers or ribbons to decorate<br /> Plant ID walk: Safety First! Don’t let kids put plants into their mouths without asking!<br /> Have children take oath: “I promise to never ever, ever ever ever ever, NEVER ever ever EVER, put a plant into my mouth, without asking first.”<br /> Explain difference between edible plants and poisonous plants<br /> Make it magical: plant name, human uses, faery uses, elven uses, dragon uses<br /> Runes Set: learn a new language, have kids make their name, use in magical decision making<br /> Potion making - Learning Objective: following a recipe, wow-ing them with chemical reaction (science is cool, folks), <br /> Oobleck: 1 part water, 2 part corn starch, add small amt of food coloring<br /> Foaming Potion: add vinegar to baking soda, option to add food coloring to vinegar<br /> Visual Wow: mix food coloring into milk<br /> Can use edible plants to make sun tea concoction<br /> Fire making<br /> Foam Archery<br /> Scavenger Hunts: these are useful to help hone observation skills and to help kids understand the world around them in a more intimate/detailed way. Make sure to use big things and small things alike (hunt for the macro and micro)<br /> Magical Plant ID<br /> Dragon eggs<br /> Rainbow: find objects in nature that are each color of the rainbow<br /> Shapes: how many shapes can be found in nature<br /> Flower Power<br /> Lichen and moss<br /> Story mapping: create a map of what you did that day: this will help give a visual to the kids for the story of the day. You can create space through the day, after each activity to add to the map OR use it as a hovel activity for the end of the day. You can create one for each day OR make a larger one for the entire week. Explore these maps on Friday during your team celebration<br /> Divination: the practice of seeking knowledge of the future or the unknown by supernatural means. Supernatural: attributed to some force beyond scientific understanding or laws of nature. There are many ways to do divination. Make it up to help your storyline of the day.<br /> Read tea leaves<br /> Use runes to create a fortune<br /> Mirror and candles<br /> Weather divination: look at cloud shapes and see what they tell you, what direction the wind is blowing, etc<br /> Bird Identification: it is important to learn birds for that is the way dragons can sometimes disguise themselves in this dimension.<br /> Make sure to grab a reference bird book<br /> Build Dragon’s nest based off of bird’s nest<br /> Stealth and Stalking: learn to move silently through the wood so you cannot be detected<br /> Sneak up on faeries or elven habitats<br /> Fox walk<br /> Camouflage: 3 Ds - dull, dapple, duff<br /> Eagle eye<br /> Forest meditations/sit spots<br /> Themed dance parties: faeries, elves, and dragons<br /> Bug (Faery) catching: as dragons can disguise themselves as birds, faeries can disguise themselves as bugs<br /> Make magical pouches: this is a simple sewing project and can be used to collect magica objects after it is complete.<br /> Take a rectangle piece of fabric, fold it in half (hamburger fold)<br /> Have fold to one side<br /> Use a simple slip stitch to sew the bottom and the other side<br /> Use a ling, loose piece of fabric to tie up the top. You have the option to stitch the tie to the pouch. <br /> Make english ivy crowns: talk about invasive plant species and why it’s okay to eradicate them from the forest environment.<br /> Tracking faeries, elves, and dragons: The art of tracking is extensive. (We named an entire business after it). Tracking is observation to the max! It can help kids get into their environment and use their brain in an imaginative wayThis is a small taste of what tracking is all about.<br /> You must think like who you are tracking and practice moving like they move<br /> Ask questions: Where do they live? What do they eat? What time of day are they mobile? Where do they like to hang out? What do they think about when they are alone?<br /> Look for scat and “foot” prints imbedded in the earth<br /> Look for plants on the ground that have been stepped on<br /> Look at your eye level for twigs or branches that may have been bent or broken<br /> Look above your head...any clues?<br /> Look for anything that seems disturbed or looks different<br /> With magical tracking, feel free to get as imaginative as you would like</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=248 2020-05-05T15:54:09Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>== '''Trackers Earth Wiki''' ==<br /> ''Our Common Purpose is greater connection to community, nature, our heritage, and future.''<br /> ==== [[The_4_Guilds|The 4 Guilds]] ====<br /> The four guilds section provides pages with information about each specific guild, including, ethos, programs taught, and relevant skills and activities. This includes the '''[[Rangers Guild]]''', the '''[[Wilders Guild]]''', the '''[[Mariners Guild]]''', and the '''[[Artisans Guild]]'''. This section also includes other programs that aren't guild specific, such as [[Rovers|'''Rovers''']].<br /> ==== [[Theme Manuals]] ====<br /> This page lists all available Theme Manuals organization wide for Summer Camps.<br /> ==== [[Skills|Skills Documents]] ====<br /> Skills documents include history, how-to guides, activities, and teaching recommendations for specific skills organization wide. Examples include [[Archery]], [[Camouflage]], [[Fishing]], or [[Basketry]]<br /> ==== [[General Content]] ====<br /> General content includes sample large group activities, behavior management strategies, Trackers policies, ice breakers, and other information that is not guild or skill specific.<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Clay&diff=247 2020-05-04T16:27:55Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== What is Clay? ===<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Clay is amazing! when combined with water and mixed well it can be plastic and flexible, capable of being shaped into a variety of forms. When dry it can become hard and keeps its shape. When heated up and cooked to higher temperatures it changes its structure and can become hard like rock. It can make hard beads and tools, as well as holding water and making cooking pots, cups and dishes.<br /> ===== Some Basic Terms =====<br /> '''Clay''' - is an earth that is often red, tan, or grey and is notable because it is both sticky and stiff. When wet it can be formed into shapes and dried and heated to make things like bricks, pottery and ceramics<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ceramics''' - stuff made out of clay that has been hardened by heating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Pottery''' - Both the act of making, and the things made by forming clay.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Firing''' - The way that you heat harden clay into usable ceramics. At 1100 degrees all of the water that is bound in the clay is driven off, and the clay makes a total chemical change so that even if soaked in water it will never go back to being mud.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Plastic/ plasticity''' - the quality of being able to be shaped and molded without breaking.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Earthenware''' - Clay that is still semi porous after it is fired. This clay fires between one thousand and two thousand degrees Fahrenheit. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stoneware''' - A type of clay that fires above 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, and has vitrified, a word that means that the surface becomes solid and non porous.<br /> ===== How to Find Clay =====<br /> Clay is heavy fine particles of a few different minerals. Some common clays are Kaolin, Smectite and Illite. These minerals form because of tectonic movement like volcanoes and geysers. Clays form when water gets trapped in minerals where there is also a high content of silica. Clay is recognizable because it is plastic, which means that when you mix the powdered clay with water it can bend and form without falling apart. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> There are two kinds of clay that you are likely to find. The first is called Primary clay. This is clay that is going to be exactly where it was formed in the earth. Places that you might find primary clays are: near tectonic events, hot springs, earthquakes and other places where the clay formed. Most stoneware and fancier purer clays like porcelain are primary clays.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The other kind of clays that you might find are called secondary clays. Secondary clays were moved by erosion and water from one place to another. These clays may have gotten deposited by a river or stream flowing. You will often find secondary clays in places where water carries soil. Since the clay particles are heavy they will often settle and accumulate. Secondary clay can be on the banks of creeks and rivers, in the bottom of seasonal creeks and lakes, as well in layered deposits in places where water used to run. In many places people harvest their clay from sedimentary deposits that used to be underwater, but are now on the sides of cliffs and hills. This clay is dry and needs to be mixed with water before it can be used. Earthenware is almost always secondary clays because in the process of moving they have mixed with other minerals. <br /> === Look for clay ===<br /> Keep an eye out for road cuts and low summer stream banks where you can find secondary clay deposits<br /> -Look for stripes of red, tan or grey that don’t match the surrounding landscape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> -Clay particles are often heavier than surrounding dirt, and they are plastic so they will stick together in layers under deposits of silt, sand and dirt.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> -in areas with water, clay will often have a smooth surface when wet and smear in a smooth, not granular way when scooped of cut into with a shovel.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> - If clay is dry it will crumble in a chalky way, but when mixed with water will hold together.<br /> -Try making a ball of your possible clay and letting it dry. See if it stays in its shape, and becomes hard, this is also a good test for real clay.<br /> ===== Clay vs. Loam =====<br /> What about things that feel like clay, mould like clay, but are not actually clay? Loam is a word that geologists use to describe earth that they find that is a mix of sand, dirt and some clay. Unfortunately loam is usually less than half clay and is often what people use as a basis when they are making things like bricks, it is not particularly good for making pottery or more functional vessels like bowls and plates. How can you tell if your clay is loam, and what can you do to fix it?<br /> === How to Tell if Your Clay is Good Clay ===<br /> For both tests If your clay is dry you might need to add water and knead the mixture in your hands until it is wet enough to be moldable, but not so wet that it just sticks to everything.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coil test'''<br /> Make a thick coil of clay, about an inch thick, and four to six inches long. Hold it by one end. If you can dangle the weight from one end without the tube of earth breaking and falling then you probably have decent clay, since only clay is sticky enough to perform like that.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Snake test'''<br /> Roll a snake of your possible clay about finger thick between your fingers. Wrap the snake around your finger. If it can do this without breaking (some small cracks are okay) then you might have good clay.<br /> If the clay seems to move more like jello than play-doh then you may have a lot of super fine silt in you clay that is making it less usable.<br /> === Make Bad Clay Into Better Clay ===<br /> If you are going to make your clay into usable clay the first test is to see how much work that you are going to need to do.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> # Take a clear glass or plastic jar and fill it about a quarter of the way up with your clay.<br /> # If your clay is dry smash it into dust before you do this.<br /> # If your clay is sticky and wet, make sure that it is not one hard lump.<br /> # Fill the rest of the jar with water. Put the lid on the jar and Shake it until all of the earth is mixed in completely with the water in one big muddy slurry with no big lumps.<br /> # Place the jar on a flat spot and watch it for about two to three minutes. The first things that will happen is that any plant matter, light organic dirt, leaves, roots, and such will float to the top. Similarly anything that is heavier like sand and rocks will immediately settle. The silt will take a bit longer to separate and sink down with the sand.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Everything that is still floating in the center is the clay layer. This is what you will want to separate from the rest of your earth. If the layers of dirt and plant are really big then you will need to screen for all of that matter. If the layer of sand is really big then you will have to do some separating. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Separating your clay! ===<br /> To fix up your clay you are now going to need to separate out those three layers, the plant/organic layer, the clay layer, and the sand and silt layer. Some tools that will make this process easier will be:<br /> * A garden hose or access to water<br /> * At least two large buckets<br /> * A fine screen, with mesh in it not too much bigger than a window screen.<br /> * A board that you can dry your clay out on<br /> * A cloth bag or pillowcase that you don’t like.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If your clay seems really dry, or really hard then you are going to want to dry it out in the sun and pummel it with a hammer or rock until it is a pile of dust. If your clay is sticky and mud like you can either dry it out and repeat like above, or you can just use it straight and consign yourself to more time spent stirring it to a slurry.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Put all of your ground clay or mud into one of the big buckets. Ideally, it should not fill more than one half of the bucket. Fill the bucket the rest of the way with water and stir well until everything is mixed smoothly. Let the mixture sit for a least a couple of hours so that everything can re-hydrate to the same level.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Pour your clay water slurry from one bucket into the other bucket through the screen. This is going to separate out lots of the small rocks, big pieces of sand, and much of the plant matter that might be contaminating your clay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Add more water, and mix the strained slurry again. Let this sit overnight&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Your bucket should now have a couple of definite layers in it. On the top there may be any plant matter that did not make it out on the screen. You can simply skim all of this off. There should then be a layer of clear water. Under that just like in your jar you will see a thick cloudy layer. This is your clay. Underneath there should be a layer that feels like silt and sand. It is. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Pour all of the clear water and the clay layer back into your first bucket without pouring in the silt and sand.<br /> Now you have a bucket of just clay and water! Pour the whole mess into your pillowcase and let the water finish dripping out! Turn out the whole mess of clay onto a board and let it sit for about a day or so until it is dry enough that you can start playing with it!<br /> === Fire your Clay Traditional Style ===<br /> When you fire your clay the first thing to remember is that you want to go slow! Heating up your pot too quickly is likely to make your pot crack and explode.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> # Make a big fire in a barbecue or a fire pit<br /> # Slowly warm your pot or pots up around the fire, turning them every few minutes so that all sides get evenly heated<br /> # As the pots warm up move them closer and closer to the fire until they are too hot to touch, then move them using tongs. This whole process of pre warming your pots should take at least an hour.<br /> # Open the fire up so that it is spread out with an open space in the middle<br /> # Put your pots in the open space and let them hang out there for a few minutes as they continue heating. <br /> # Slowly move the fire back together around the pots<br /> # After they have been successfully sitting in the fire for ten minutes or so begin moving adding more wood, building the fire up around the pots<br /> # Make the fire large and hot, keep it burning for at least an hour. At this point some people add charcoal to make a hotter fire with lots of coals. Other people use dried cow patties for a similar effect.<br /> # Let the fire cool naturally and only go to dig out your pots when the fire is cold to the touch.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Clay&diff=246 2020-05-04T16:27:38Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== What is Clay? ===<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Clay is amazing! when combined with water and mixed well it can be plastic and flexible, capable of being shaped into a variety of forms. When dry it can become hard and keeps its shape. When heated up and cooked to higher temperatures it changes its structure and can become hard like rock. It can make hard beads and tools, as well as holding water and making cooking pots, cups and dishes.<br /> ===== Some Basic Terms =====<br /> '''Clay''' - is an earth that is often red, tan, or grey and is notable because it is both sticky and stiff. When wet it can be formed into shapes and dried and heated to make things like bricks, pottery and ceramics<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ceramics''' - stuff made out of clay that has been hardened by heating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Pottery''' - Both the act of making, and the things made by forming clay.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Firing''' - The way that you heat harden clay into usable ceramics. At 1100 degrees all of the water that is bound in the clay is driven off, and the clay makes a total chemical change so that even if soaked in water it will never go back to being mud.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Plastic/ plasticity''' - the quality of being able to be shaped and molded without breaking.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Earthenware''' - Clay that is still semi porous after it is fired. This clay fires between one thousand and two thousand degrees Fahrenheit. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stoneware''' - A type of clay that fires above 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, and has vitrified, a word that means that the surface becomes solid and non porous.<br /> ===== How to Find Clay =====<br /> Clay is heavy fine particles of a few different minerals. Some common clays are Kaolin, Smectite and Illite. These minerals form because of tectonic movement like volcanoes and geysers. Clays form when water gets trapped in minerals where there is also a high content of silica. Clay is recognizable because it is plastic, which means that when you mix the powdered clay with water it can bend and form without falling apart. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> There are two kinds of clay that you are likely to find. The first is called Primary clay. This is clay that is going to be exactly where it was formed in the earth. Places that you might find primary clays are: near tectonic events, hot springs, earthquakes and other places where the clay formed. Most stoneware and fancier purer clays like porcelain are primary clays.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The other kind of clays that you might find are called secondary clays. Secondary clays were moved by erosion and water from one place to another. These clays may have gotten deposited by a river or stream flowing. You will often find secondary clays in places where water carries soil. Since the clay particles are heavy they will often settle and accumulate. Secondary clay can be on the banks of creeks and rivers, in the bottom of seasonal creeks and lakes, as well in layered deposits in places where water used to run. In many places people harvest their clay from sedimentary deposits that used to be underwater, but are now on the sides of cliffs and hills. This clay is dry and needs to be mixed with water before it can be used. Earthenware is almost always secondary clays because in the process of moving they have mixed with other minerals. <br /> === Look for clay ===<br /> Keep an eye out for road cuts and low summer stream banks where you can find secondary clay deposits<br /> -Look for stripes of red, tan or grey that don’t match the surrounding landscape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> -Clay particles are often heavier than surrounding dirt, and they are plastic so they will stick together in layers under deposits of silt, sand and dirt.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> -in areas with water, clay will often have a smooth surface when wet and smear in a smooth, not granular way when scooped of cut into with a shovel.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> - If clay is dry it will crumble in a chalky way, but when mixed with water will hold together.<br /> -Try making a ball of your possible clay and letting it dry. See if it stays in its shape, and becomes hard, this is also a good test for real clay.<br /> ===== Clay vs. Loam =====<br /> What about things that feel like clay, mould like clay, but are not actually clay? Loam is a word that geologists use to describe earth that they find that is a mix of sand, dirt and some clay. Unfortunately loam is usually less than half clay and is often what people use as a basis when they are making things like bricks, it is not particularly good for making pottery or more functional vessels like bowls and plates. How can you tell if your clay is loam, and what can you do to fix it?<br /> === How to Tell if Your Clay is Good Clay ===<br /> For both tests If your clay is dry you might need to add water and knead the mixture in your hands until it is wet enough to be moldable, but not so wet that it just sticks to everything.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Coil test'''<br /> Make a thick coil of clay, about an inch thick, and four to six inches long. Hold it by one end. If you can dangle the weight from one end without the tube of earth breaking and falling then you probably have decent clay, since only clay is sticky enough to perform like that.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Snake test'''<br /> Roll a snake of your possible clay about finger thick between your fingers. Wrap the snake around your finger. If it can do this without breaking (some small cracks are okay) then you might have good clay.<br /> If the clay seems to move more like jello than play-doh then you may have a lot of super fine silt in you clay that is making it less usable.<br /> === Make Bad Clay Into Better Clay ===<br /> If you are going to make your clay into usable clay the first test is to see how much work that you are going to need to do.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> # Take a clear glass or plastic jar and fill it about a quarter of the way up with your clay.<br /> # If your clay is dry smash it into dust before you do this.<br /> # If your clay is sticky and wet, make sure that it is not one hard lump.<br /> # Fill the rest of the jar with water. Put the lid on the jar and Shake it until all of the earth is mixed in completely with the water in one big muddy slurry with no big lumps.<br /> # Place the jar on a flat spot and watch it for about two to three minutes. The first things that will happen is that any plant matter, light organic dirt, leaves, roots, and such will float to the top. Similarly anything that is heavier like sand and rocks will immediately settle. The silt will take a bit longer to separate and sink down with the sand.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Everything that is still floating in the center is the clay layer. This is what you will want to separate from the rest of your earth. If the layers of dirt and plant are really big then you will need to screen for all of that matter. If the layer of sand is really big then you will have to do some separating. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Separating your clay! ===<br /> To fix up your clay you are now going to need to separate out those three layers, the plant/organic layer, the clay layer, and the sand and silt layer. Some tools that will make this process easier will be:<br /> * A garden hose or access to water<br /> * At least two large buckets<br /> * A fine screen, with mesh in it not too much bigger than a window screen.<br /> * A board that you can dry your clay out on<br /> * A cloth bag or pillowcase that you don’t like.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If your clay seems really dry, or really hard then you are going to want to dry it out in the sun and pummel it with a hammer or rock until it is a pile of dust. If your clay is sticky and mud like you can either dry it out and repeat like above, or you can just use it straight and consign yourself to more time spent stirring it to a slurry.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Put all of your ground clay or mud into one of the big buckets. Ideally, it should not fill more than one half of the bucket. Fill the bucket the rest of the way with water and stir well until everything is mixed smoothly. Let the mixture sit for a least a couple of hours so that everything can re-hydrate to the same level.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Pour your clay water slurry from one bucket into the other bucket through the screen. This is going to separate out lots of the small rocks, big pieces of sand, and much of the plant matter that might be contaminating your clay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Add more water, and mix the strained slurry again. Let this sit overnight&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Your bucket should now have a couple of definite layers in it. On the top there may be any plant matter that did not make it out on the screen. You can simply skim all of this off. There should then be a layer of clear water. Under that just like in your jar you will see a thick cloudy layer. This is your clay. Underneath there should be a layer that feels like silt and sand. It is. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Pour all of the clear water and the clay layer back into your first bucket without pouring in the silt and sand.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now you have a bucket of just clay and water! Pour the whole mess into your pillowcase and let the water finish dripping out! Turn out the whole mess of clay onto a board and let it sit for about a day or so until it is dry enough that you can start playing with it!<br /> === Fire your Clay Traditional Style ===<br /> When you fire your clay the first thing to remember is that you want to go slow! Heating up your pot too quickly is likely to make your pot crack and explode.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> # Make a big fire in a barbecue or a fire pit<br /> # Slowly warm your pot or pots up around the fire, turning them every few minutes so that all sides get evenly heated<br /> # As the pots warm up move them closer and closer to the fire until they are too hot to touch, then move them using tongs. This whole process of pre warming your pots should take at least an hour.<br /> # Open the fire up so that it is spread out with an open space in the middle<br /> # Put your pots in the open space and let them hang out there for a few minutes as they continue heating. <br /> # Slowly move the fire back together around the pots<br /> # After they have been successfully sitting in the fire for ten minutes or so begin moving adding more wood, building the fire up around the pots<br /> # Make the fire large and hot, keep it burning for at least an hour. At this point some people add charcoal to make a hotter fire with lots of coals. Other people use dried cow patties for a similar effect.<br /> # Let the fire cool naturally and only go to dig out your pots when the fire is cold to the touch.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Clay&diff=245 2020-05-04T16:21:40Z

<p>Ryan: Created page with &quot;=== What is Clay? === &lt;br&gt; Clay is amazing! when combined with water and mixed well it can be plastic and flexible, capable of being shaped into a variety of forms. When dry...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>=== What is Clay? ===<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Clay is amazing! when combined with water and mixed well it can be plastic and flexible, capable of being shaped into a variety of forms. When dry it can become hard and keeps its shape. When heated up and cooked to higher temperatures it changes its structure and can become hard like rock. It can make hard beads and tools, as well as holding water and making cooking pots, cups and dishes.<br /> ===== Some Basic Terms =====<br /> '''Clay''' - is an earth that is often red, tan, or grey and is notable because it is both sticky and stiff. When wet it can be formed into shapes and dried and heated to make things like bricks, pottery and ceramics<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Ceramics''' - stuff made out of clay that has been hardened by heating.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Pottery''' - Both the act of making, and the things made by forming clay.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Firing''' - The way that you heat harden clay into usable ceramics. At 1100 degrees all of the water that is bound in the clay is driven off, and the clay makes a total chemical change so that even if soaked in water it will never go back to being mud.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Plastic/ plasticity''' - the quality of being able to be shaped and molded without breaking.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Earthenware''' - Clay that is still semi porous after it is fired. This clay fires between one thousand and two thousand degrees Fahrenheit. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stoneware''' - A type of clay that fires above 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, and has vitrified, a word that means that the surface becomes solid and non porous.<br /> ===== How to Find Clay =====<br /> Clay is heavy fine particles of a few different minerals. Some common clays are Kaolin, Smectite and Illite. These minerals form because of tectonic movement like volcanoes and geysers. Clays form when water gets trapped in minerals where there is also a high content of silica. Clay is recognizable because it is plastic, which means that when you mix the powdered clay with water it can bend and form without falling apart. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> There are two kinds of clay that you are likely to find. The first is called Primary clay. This is clay that is going to be exactly where it was formed in the earth. Places that you might find primary clays are: near tectonic events, hot springs, earthquakes and other places where the clay formed. Most stoneware and fancier purer clays like porcelain are primary clays.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The other kind of clays that you might find are called secondary clays. Secondary clays were moved by erosion and water from one place to another. These clays may have gotten deposited by a river or stream flowing. You will often find secondary clays in places where water carries soil. Since the clay particles are heavy they will often settle and accumulate. Secondary clay can be on the banks of creeks and rivers, in the bottom of seasonal creeks and lakes, as well in layered deposits in places where water used to run. In many places people harvest their clay from sedimentary deposits that used to be underwater, but are now on the sides of cliffs and hills. This clay is dry and needs to be mixed with water before it can be used. Earthenware is almost always secondary clays because in the process of moving they have mixed with other minerals. <br /> === Look for clay ===<br /> Keep an eye out for road cuts and low summer stream banks where you can find secondary clay deposits<br /> -Look for stripes of red, tan or grey that don’t match the surrounding landscape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> -Clay particles are often heavier than surrounding dirt, and they are plastic so they will stick together in layers under deposits of silt, sand and dirt.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> -in areas with water, clay will often have a smooth surface when wet and smear in a smooth, not granular way when scooped of cut into with a shovel.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> - If clay is dry it will crumble in a chalky way, but when mixed with water will hold together.<br /> -Try making a ball of your possible clay and letting it dry. See if it stays in its shape, and becomes hard, this is also a good test for real clay.<br /> ===== Clay vs. Loam =====<br /> What about things that feel like clay, mould like clay, but are not actually clay? Loam is a word that geologists use to describe earth that they find that is a mix of sand, dirt and some clay. Unfortunately loam is usually less than half clay and is often what people use as a basis when they are making things like bricks, it is not particularly good for making pottery or more functional vessels like bowls and plates. How can you tell if your clay is loam, and what can you do to fix it?<br /> === How to Tell if Your Clay is Good Clay ===<br /> For both tests If your clay is dry you might need to add water and knead the mixture in your hands until it is wet enough to be moldable, but not so wet that it just sticks to everything.<br /> '''Coil test'''<br /> Make a thick coil of clay, about an inch thick, and four to six inches long. Hold it by one end. If you can dangle the weight from one end without the tube of earth breaking and falling then you probably have decent clay, since only clay is sticky enough to perform like that.<br /> '''Snake test'''<br /> Roll a snake of your possible clay about finger thick between your fingers. Wrap the snake around your finger. If it can do this without breaking (some small cracks are okay) then you might have good clay.<br /> If the clay seems to move more like jello than play-doh then you may have a lot of super fine silt in you clay that is making it less usable.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Make Bad Clay Into Better Clay ===<br /> If you are going to make your clay into usable clay the first test is to see how much work that you are going to need to do. For this you should take a clear glass or plastic jar and fill it about a quarter of the way up with your clay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If your clay is dry smash it into dust before you do this.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If your clay is sticky and wet, make sure that it is not one hard lump.&lt;br&gt;\<br /> Fill the rest of the jar with water. Put the lid on the jar and Shake it until all of the earth is mixed in completely with the water in one big muddy slurry with no big lumps.&lt;br&gt;\<br /> Place the jar on a flat spot and watch it for about two to three minutes. The first things that will happen is that any plant matter, light organic dirt, leaves, roots, and such will float to the top. Similarly anything that is heavier like sand and rocks will immediately settle. The silt will take a bit longer to separate and sink down with the sand.<br /> Everything that is still floating in the center is the clay layer. This is what you will want to separate from the rest of your earth. If the layers of dirt and plant are really big then you will need to screen for all of that matter. If the layer of sand is really big then you will have to do some separating. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Separating your clay! ===<br /> To fix up your clay you are now going to need to separate out those three layers, the plant/organic layer, the clay layer, and the sand and silt layer. Some tools that will make this process easier will be :<br /> A garden hose or access to water<br /> At least two large buckets<br /> A fine screen, with mesh in it not too much bigger than a window screen.<br /> A board that you can dry your clay out on<br /> A cloth bag or pillowcase that you don’t like.<br /> <br /> If your clay seems really dry, or really hard then you are going to want to dry it out in the sun and pummel it with a hammer or rock until it is a pile of dust. If your clay is sticky and mud like you can either dry it out and repeat like above, or you can just use it straight and consign yourself to more time spent stirring it to a slurry.<br /> Put all of your ground clay or mud into one of the big buckets. Ideally, it should not fill more than one half of the bucket. <br /> Fill the bucket the rest of the way with water and stir well until everything is mixed smoothly. Let the mixture sit for a least a couple of hours so that everything can rehydrate to the same level.<br /> Pour your clay water slurry from one bucket into the other bucket through the screen. This is going to separate out lots of the small rocks, big pieces of sand, and much of the plant matter that might be contaminating your clay.<br /> Add more water, and mix the strained slurry again. Let this sit overnight<br /> Your bucket should now have a couple of definite layers in it. On the top there may be any plant matter that did not make it out on the screen. You can simply skim all of this off. There should then be a layer of clear water. Under that just like in your jar you will see a thick cloudy layer. This is your clay. Underneath there should be a layer that feels like silt and sand. It is. <br /> You want to pour all of the clear water and the clay layer back into your first bucket without pouring in the silt and sand.<br /> Now you have a bucket of just clay and water! Pour the whole mess into your pillowcase and let the water finish dripping out! Turn out the whole mess of clay onto a board and let it sit for about a day or so until it is dry enough that you can start playing with it!<br /> Fire your clay traditional style<br /> When you fire your clay the first thing to remember is that you want to go slow! Heating up your pot too quickly is likely to make your pot crack and explode.<br /> Make a big fire in a barbeque or a fire pit<br /> Slowly warm your pot or pots up around the fire, turning them every few minutes so that all sides get evenly heated<br /> As the pots warm up move them closer and closer to the fire until they are too hot to touch, then move them using tongs. This whole process of pre warming your pots should take at least an hour.<br /> Open the fire up so that it is spread out with an open space in the middle<br /> Put your pots in the open space and let them hang out there for a few minutes as they continue heating. <br /> Slowly move the fire back together around the pots<br /> After they have been successfully sitting in the fire for ten minutes or so begin moving adding more wood, building the fire up around the pots<br /> Make the fire large and hot, keep it burning for at least an hour. At this point some people add charcoal to make a hotter fire with lots of coals. Other people use dried cow patties for a similar effect.<br /> Let the fire cool naturally and only go to dig out your pots when the fire is cold to the touch.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Skills&diff=244 2020-05-04T15:59:22Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Below are listings of all skills documents'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Archery]]<br /> * [[Advanced_Archery_Techniques|Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> * [[Arrow Making]]<br /> * [[Bow_Making|Bow Making]]<br /> Basketry<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bird Language<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Blacksmithing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bone Tools<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Camouflage]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Carving<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Char_cloth|Char Cloth]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Clay]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Cordage<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fire<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fishing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Flint Knapping<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Flint and Steel]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Fort Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Hide Tanning<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Kayaking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Knots]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Hunting]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Map and Compass]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Martial Arts<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Paintball<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Climbing<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rock Hounding<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Shelter Building<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Sword Techniques<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Sign Tracking]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Stalking and Movement]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Traps<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants PNW<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants Rockies<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Wild Edible Plants California<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Stalking_and_Movement&diff=243 2020-04-28T20:28:30Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> As you spend more time in nature you will find that we modern humans don’t blend in so well, and more often than not we create a disturbance<br /> when we enter it. To find the reason you need look no further than how we live! Most humans moved out of nature long ago. We have set up towns and cities, and paved our streets. We wear clothing with bright colors and we move way too fast! <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Lets take a trip back in time and visit some of our early ancestors. We will be invisible so we can observe without disturbing them! The first thing you notice is that they do not live in towns and cities the way we do. Our early ancestors were nomadic hunter gatherers. This means that they did not have a permanent place to live. Instead they would move with the seasons. Since Farming does not exist yet, their lifestyle was based on hunting and gathering different food sources depending on the time of year. They would set up a temporary village in a new area and proceed to hunt animals and gather other resources. As the seasons changed, or they noticed their main food sources started to become scarce, they would pack their few belongings up, and move to a new place. By doing this they would always have good sources of food and materials, and they would never fully deplete any resource. By the time they make it back to the same area after completing their circuit, the area would have replenished itself. Our ancestors lived much closer to nature than we do, and they understood how their actions affected the environment. In order to be effective hunter gatherers our ancestors had to blend into their environments. They had to be stealthy and move without making much noise. If they were noisy not only would they not be effective hunters, but throughout much our history we shared the land with large predators who would just as quickly eat us as another animal. If you are reading this now, someone far back in your family tree was a master of stealth and camouflage! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Flash forward to modern times. We now live in much larger groups in towns and cities. We have roads for cars and sidewalks to travel on. our lives are busy, and fast paced, much faster than our ancestors. No longer do we have to rely on hunting and gathering to sustain ourselves. We can go to a store and buy foods from all over the world. Because of all these changes we have forgotten how to exist in the natural world. When we do spend time in Nature we tend to move at the same speed we do when we are out and about town. Not only that, but we will also be wearing the same bright clothing that we wear while at home. When we enter nature this way we are an alien presence, and animals will flee or hide. If we want to be part of this world, we are going to need to make some changes to our behavior.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Movement === <br /> The first, and easiest change to make is how we move in nature. Nature as a whole moves slowly. We humans are on a 24 hour clock, while Natures clock is seasonal. For instance at the time of me writing this it is 3/4 past winter! You don’t need to move at a snails pace in order to blend in better while in the woods, but you need to move slower than you do in your daily life! If you move at half the speed you normally walk that should be good enough for now. Another problem with our fast, modern movements is that it makes us more prone to accidents! Our brain knows this and without you even thinking about it it initiates a secret defense mechanism that I bet you have never noticed. In order to protect our fast moving bodies our brain constantly forces us to look at the ground in front of us. That way we can see anything in our path that may cause us harm. It serves it purpose, but it also steals our awareness from everything else going on around us. So let me ask you a question, If your moving through the woods, and your moving to fast, and your eyes are always staring at the ground in front of you, how do you expect to see any animals?!?! Many times I have gone to a park a sat just off of a main trail. 9 out of 10 people will walk right by you and not notice. There are a few other ways our modern walking style is bad not only for our bodies, but limits our ability to be more a apart of nature. When we move in the “City Shuffle” not only are we moving too fast, but we take giant strides. Your stride is the distance between your steps. When we take big steps we tend to land on our heels and and then slap our toes forward as we move into our next step. This is bad for our bodies because with each step we hit with a lot of force, and it is also very loud. Many animals in the forest have great hearing and when we do the “city shuffle” in the woods, animals will flee or hide long before we see them.<br /> === THE FOX WALK ===<br /> Now its time to learn your first movement “form.&quot; It is called the Fox walk. Foxes are one of the most aware, stealthy creatures out there. Foxes are always looking, and listening to their surroundings. Wether they are moving slow, or fast, they do so in a way that creates a minimal disturbance. When we do the Fox walk we want to become the Fox! <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now imagine you are standing at the edge of the forest, and you are ready to go for a walk. The first thing we want to do is slow our mind down. In order to be aware of our surroundings we need to be focused and open to them. If we slow our minds down first, our bodies will follow.<br /> Now we are ready to take our first step. Instead of the big, long strides we take when walking down the sidewalk. Shorten your stride to about half the distance. By doing this we will no longer hit with those heavy heel to toe steps. When you place your foot on the ground let the outside edge of your foot hit first, then gently roll your foot flat on the ground. As soon as your foot hits the ground we want to be “listening” to the ground with our feet. If we are trying to be quiet we don’t want to step on anything that will make noise. We want to avoid stepping on dry leaves or sticks, as those noises will give away your position. When we are going slow and using our feet to talk to the ground all of a sudden our brain does not need to protect our body by constantly staring at the ground in front of us. This allows us to have our eyes up, and looking around. When we are moving slowly and quietly and are able to look around all of a sudden we will be aware of our surroundings and we will notice things we would have otherwise passed by. Since we are also being stealthy birds and other animals will not be so quick to run away from us!<br /> As we continue on our walk we want to remember to go slow, keep our eyes up, and feel what we are stepping on before we commit all of our weight to any step. These few, simple things will take us from being a disturbance in nature, to blending in! One thing to take note of. When first starting off with the Fox walk it may be uncomfortable. Your feet might <br /> hurt. This is normal. You have been walking a certain way for most of your life and that is what your body is used to. It will take a little while for your body to adjust to this new movement form.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''FOOTWEAR'''<br /> In our modern times we have many different types of shoes and boots. Unfortunately the vast majority of them are not good for Fox walking or stalking. Shoes as we know them are a relatively new invention and have only been around for around 500-800 years. We have been walking upright for much much longer. If you study the few hunter-gatherer societies that are left you will see that they spend most of their time barefoot, or in very simple, non bulky foot coverings similar to moccasins. Much of our modern footwear has thick soles and raised heels. These are supposed to protect our feet, but studies have shown that they cause more damage than good. Many footwear companies make “barefoot” shoes these days. Barefoot shoes typically are thin and flexible, and allow you to feel the ground. Its also a good idea to go barefoot whenever possible. The more time we spend barefoot the tougher our feet will become. In the Spring and Summer I spend as much time as possible barefoot, only putting on shoes to go out in public or when I am participating in an activity where there is a potential for injury to my feet.<br /> <br /> MAKES<br /> Walk around your yard, or a park the way you would normally walk, but put your fingers in your ears. You will hear and feel a thumping sound with every step. After a minute of so, switch to a Fox walk, and notice how the sound goes away!<br /> <br /> MISSIONS<br /> Spend an hour doing the folk walk the next time you are in the woods. remember to go slow and keep your eyes up, and looking around.<br /> <br /> MODIFIERS<br /> Once you become comfortable with the Fox walk try increasing your speed. how fast can you go before you start making extra noise. Then try going as slow as you can go. This will start to prepare you for stalking.<br /> '''<br /> STALKING'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The main difference between the Fox walk and stalking is your speed. The average speed of the fox walk is about a half to a quarter the speed you normally move. Stalking is much slower. Whereas the Fox walk will be our main movement form when in Nature there will be times that we need to stalk. Stalking is used to get close enough to an animal to touch it, or to Harvest it with a hunting tool. We will talk about hunting in a different chapter, so for now, we just want to get close enough to an animal or bird to touch it or observe it at close range.<br /> The first thing we want to do when starting our stalk is change our silhouette. When an animals thinks of a human, it probably sees an image in its mind that looks similar to this signs we see on a bathroom door, or a pedestrian crossing sign. When we stalk we want to change our profile so we don’t look so much like an upright walking human. Bend your knees and hunch your back a little bit. When it comes to speed, we want to go super slow! How slow you ask? Approximately a minute per step! At first when you try stalking you may find its hard to do because you will be spending a lot of time on one leg. You may lose your balance and be shaky. Being wobbly and losing your balance will not help you get close to animals. Before you practice actually stalking take some time getting comfortable standing on one leg. An easy way to practice is to stand on one leg anytime you find your self standing in line somewhere. I practice standing on one leg when I am in line at the grocery store, when I am brushing my teeth, even when I am doing the dishes! I cant stress how important this is! One time I was trying to stalk a Deer. I wanted to get close enough to touch it. When I got to within 10 ft, all of a sudden the Deer looked up from what it was feeding on and stared in my direction. I just so happened to be in mid step. For 15 minutes the deer stared at me! it knew something was going on, but couldn’t decide if I was dangerous or not, so it froze. Eventually its discomfort caused it to move on, but i managed to remain balanced on one leg the whole time, while managing to keep my upper body still!<br /> A few other things to keep in mind when you are stalking, you want to move across the landscape with as few movements as possible. The more movements we make, the greater the chance for you to make a mistake and give away your position. For instance, you only need to pick your feet as high as what you are stalking through. If I am stalking on a well worn path, my feet will only come off the ground about an inch. If I am stalking through brush, I may need to pick i may need to “high step” to get you foot over obstacles. This is also true while doing the Fox walk.<br /> <br /> MAKES<br /> Practice standing on one leg whenever you have the time. It will help you to be better a stalking.<br /> <br /> MISSIONS<br /> Once you are good at standing on one leg, Start to practice stalking. Remember to try and make you average time per step be around 1 minute.<br /> <br /> MODIFIERS<br /> Head into the woods, or your local park and try and stalk some birds, or squirrels. pay attention to how your moving, and how the animals react to your presence.<br /> STALKING AND MOVEMENT TIPS AND TRICKS<br /> <br /> There is much more to stalking and movement then how slow you are going, or how you place your feet on the ground. Think of the act of stalking an animal as a game of chess, you must think first, before you move. One of the reasons I love trying to stalk animals is every time you try is unique. Its important to keep a few other things in mind when doing it. <br /> <br /> The first is to match you movements to the “ebb and flow” of whats going on around you. Any environment has a certain about of sound and motion going on. This is known as the baseline. Your goal is to make sure your movements, or the noise you are making does not exceed that of the baseline. Many years ago I loved on a farm in the midwest. At one end of the property we had a beautiful marsh that was full of wildlife. there was also a very active set of railroad tracks that ran along the edge of the marsh. One day I was sitting quietly at the edge of the marsh observing my surroundings. There was a Great Blue Heron feeding nearby, a few species of waterfowl feeding in the water, and there was even a Muskrat working on its den nearby. All of a sudden, off in the distance I heard the train coming, the train came flying through going about 75 miles per hour, towing 100+ cars. You would think the animals would flee at all the noise and motion, but they carried on as if nothing happened!! I continued to sit, as I was waiting for a friend to pick me up to go do some work on the other part of the property. I heard my friends truck coming up the nearby road which the animals also ignored. I heard him stop, get out of the truck and close his door. As soon as the sound of his truck door closing reached the ears of the animals there was an explosion of activity! the Heron and the waterfowl all took off, and the muskrat dove underwater! How come the sound of the train did not disturb the animals in the slightest? Why did the sound of the truck door closing scare them? Because the train is a daily occurrence in the marsh, while the sound of a truck door closing is not! Always remember to match your movements to the baseline!<br /> <br /> You also need to remember that animals are many times more aware than we are. They rely on their awareness to stay alive therefore we are at a disadvantage and need to use anything we can to even the odds, which brings me to our next stalking tip.<br /> We need use the landscape to our advantage. I will rarely ever move across open ground in a straight line. instead I will move from an area of cover, to another area of cover. I will use trees, brush lines, boulders, and thickets to conceal me. You can also move from shadow to shadow. I will stop often to look, listen, and feel whats going on around me. Its also good sense to avoid “noisy” areas. Places on the forest floor that have lots of snappy twigs and dead leaves are going to be hard to navigate quietly.<br /> Before I take my fist step into a stalking scenario I will observe the area as a whole and pick out the areas to avoid, while also planning my potential routes. You can also use the weather to your advantage. On a windy day you can get away with making more noise. When a gust of wind comes you can move a bit faster and not worry so much about the noise you are making, but when the gust dies down remember to slow down, or stop and wait for the next gust. Other natural sounds like falling rain, or moving water can be great at hiding any noise you might make. When it comes to wind we need to understand that many animals have amazing senses of smell. Members of the Deer family for instance rely on their sense of smell as their primary means for detecting predators. While me may smell good to each other, we do not smell good to animals. Therefore if we want to get close to animals that have sensitive noses, its important that we approach them from down wind. Down wind means that the when the wind is blowing it is coming from the direction of the animal towards you. <br /> If you are stalking around trees you may find yourself leaning on them for rest and cover. this works great with bigger trees, but be careful with smaller trees and saplings. if you bump into them or lean on them with to much force you may cause the tree to bend and sway un naturally which could give your position away. <br /> <br /> MAKES<br /> No matter what environment you are in, from the city, to the most remote forest there is a baseline. Anytime you remember to do so no matter where you may be, pay attention to, and understand the baseline.<br /> <br /> MISSIONS<br /> The next time you are out in Nature pick a place on the landscape 100 feet in front if you. Next, analyze any potential route you can take to reach that point. Look at available cover, areas of shadow, and also pay attention to any obstacles that would be to difficult or noisy to pass.<br /> <br /> MODIFIERS<br /> As you get more comfortable in your stalking and movement practice. Try stalking over more difficult terrain, try stalking across dried leaves as silently as you can. Work on transitioning from crawling on your belly to being back on your feet. If you want to take it to the next level, put on a blind fold and move through the woods.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Sign_Tracking&diff=242 2020-04-28T19:23:36Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> '''Sign Tracking''' is every indication of animals passing through an area other than their tracks. It can be more effective than regular tracking since animals often move across areas of the landscape where the substrate doesn’t allow you to clearly see their tracks.<br /> We begin by understanding that nature is a series of “islands.” Animals tend to congregate around, and move between these islands and what are known as transition zones. While there may be some animals in the open forest, or in a meadow, These places typically do not have what animals need in order to feel safe and have adequate food. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''What is a Transition Zone?'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Transition zones are the areas between a forest and a field, or an area in a forest that doesn’t have as much tree cover, allowing for a wider variety of plant species to grow. Transition zones are places that have more biodiversity than the surrounding areas. They provide more food sources that are accessible to everything from rabbits to deer. These areas also provide good cover so that the animals in and around them can feel safe. To simplify think; good diversity, good cover, good shelter/bedding areas.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''How do we find Transition Zones?'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> The easiest way is to start with “Landscape tracking.” Imagine yourself as an eagle flying high above you and looking down. Search for areas with dense growth, a water source, a field or meadow. These are good places to start. A wonderful tool we have access to these days is satellite imagery. Use google earth on your computer, or Satellite view on whatever map software your cell phone has. These can be helpful in finding transition zones.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Hierarchy of Animal Trails'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Just like humans, animals have networks of “Roadways” They use to move from place to place. And just like humans, there are different types of roadways. Think about humans for a minute. We have the interstate system, which are large, busy highways that cover great distances, Once you get off of the interstate you will find smaller highways that are still busy, but have less traffic than an intestate. Finally, we have small residential streets. These tend to be quiet and have little traffic.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt; <br /> '''Trails'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> An animal “interstate” Is called a Trail. A trail is very well used and easy to see on the landscape. They are used by multiple species. I have a trail behind my cabin with a camera on it. In the same week, I will get photos of squirrel, rabbits, skunks, bobcat, coyote, deer, and Mountain lion. Trails can cover great distances, and typically link transition zones. They will also typically follow the path of least resistance across the landscape. Animals will always follow the path of least resistance unless they are being pursued. Animals are always trying to conserve energy. Trails are good spots to hunt because so many species use them. One note of caution. The animals in the area will be VERY familiar with their trails, so if you alter them or leave to much human odor around they may abandon them for a while.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Runs'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Runs will be less used and less worn than trails. Think of them as exits off of Trails. Runs are used to link trails to food sources, water, or bedding areas. Runs also tend to be more species-specific. A rabbit run will be smaller than a coyote run. Runs are subject to abandonment for a period of time if the food source it leads to is depleted.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Sleeps/Bedding Areas'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> These will be VERY species-specific. Its a place where an animal feels most safe. It will most likely have multiple escape routes.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Chews on Vegetation and Trees'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Most animals eat plant matter, and different animals chew things in different ways. Let’s talk about a blade of grass. If you find a blade of grass that has a sharp, angular cut that looks like someone snipped it with scissors, that was most likely done by a rodent. Rodent’s teeth are sharp, and they are designed to cleanly cut plant matter. If you find a blade of grass that looks as if it has been torn in two, It’s most likely a member of the deer species. Members of the deer family do not have top teeth, so they grasp what they are eating and tear it. If you find grass that looks like its been chewed on heavily and maybe even has some holes in it, that is most likely caused by a predator/omnivore. These animals have sharper teeth and they will gnaw on vegetation when they fell the need to eat some. If you find larger trees and saplings that have been chewed and have fallen over, especially near water, there are most likely beavers around. Beavers like to eat the inner bark of trees, and will also use trees and saplings to construct their dams.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Hair/Fur'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> If we look closely at the ground around trails and runs, we may be able to find hair or fur. Hair and fur are chemically the same thing but have different qualities. Fur is softer, and a uniform length while hair is more course, and can grow fairly long depending on the species and time of the year. Furbearers are animals such as rabbits, raccoons, mice, and beavers. Members of the deer family have hair. You can also find hair and fur stuck in vegetation that grows along trails, or places where animals go over/under fences. In Colorado, I found a well-used animal trail that had a barbwire fence running across is. I found hairs and fur from deer, elk, coyote, bobcat, Mountain lion, and raccoon on the same section of the fence.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Scat'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Learning to identify animal scat is a valuable tool to learn not only what animals there may be in an area, but what they are eating. As a general rule scat that consists of pellets is herbivore scat. Small pellets could be a rabbit, Bigger pellets are probably deer. Here in Oregon I once found a place with rabbit, deer, and elk scat all in the same few square feet. They all had a similar shape, but the sizes varied greatly. Other animal scat can vary in shape, size, and length. Use a stick to pick it apart! What do you see? is there fur in it? bones? grasses? Mushrooms? Nuts and seeds? Animals such as coyotes and raccoons will eat just about anything. I have found coyote scat that was full of iridescent beetle shells once! How fresh the scat is can be a good indicator of how recently an animal has been in an area. Certain animals will use scat as a territorial marker as well.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Feathers, Bones, and Antlers''' <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Feathers can help us to identify what types of birds are in the area. You may find a single feather from time to time. Birds shed feathers the same way we shed hair. If you find a few feathers in one spot it may mean a predator tried to grab a bird but it got away. If you find a whole pile of them chances are the predator got its meal.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Bones are also a fairly common find in the woods. Trying to decipher what animal a single bone comes from can be quite difficult. If you find one bone chances are if you search the area you will find some more. If you notice chew marks on the bones that may be from rodents trying to get a bit of calcium, while also keeping their teeth sharp. Rodent’s teeth never stop growing, so they need to regularly chew on hard things to keep them from growing too long. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Antlers are shed by members of the deer family every year in late winter, and start growing again in the spring. If you find an antler it may also have chew marks on it depending on how long it has been on the ground.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Scrapes/Scratches on Trees'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When wandering through the woods you may find trees that have scratches or scrapes on them. If they are vertical scratches it could be a member of the cat family using it to sharpen its claws. How high up the tree they are could tell you this size of the cat. Bears will also use trees to tend to their claws. If you find scratches on trees that are more of a crosshatch pattern, chances are it’s a deer or elk rubbing its antlers on the tree. They will do it when their antlers stop growing in order to rub the velvet off of them. During the breeding season, they will rake their antlers on trees in order to mark their territory.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> '''Staging'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Animals sign can be found just about everywhere, even in the city. When working with your groups, use different stages to talk about what times of animals you can expect to find sign for.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> When you do discover animal sign that is interesting, it is important to consider how you will display it for your group. Animal sign can be fragile, and children will want to touch and interact with it. Set clear expectations up front, such as &quot;look at this only with your eyes, do not touch it.&quot; Other students may have a hard time getting a view when the group is crowded around the object or area of interest. It can be helpful to have groups break up and see it in turns, or form a horse shoe shape around the viewpoint.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Hazards'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Sign tracking is a very safe, engaging activity. The biggest hazard is keeping vigilant for toxic / hazardous plants that students can interact with, constant witness and monitoring your group, and when moving through dense areas, broken branches and objects that can cause injury.<br /> === Learning Outcomes and Objectives ===<br /> * Ecology<br /> * Flora and fauna in an area<br /> * Awareness<br /> * Animal trailing &amp; tracking<br /> * Hunting &amp; stalking<br /> * Stealth and movement<br /> * Respect for wildlife<br /> === Activities ===<br /> '''Search and Breakout''' - All members of a team get a clear boundary in an area. Individuals or teams can spread out and try and find animal sign on their own. When the group gets back together, every team can share what they found.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Recreate''' - When a group finds animal sign, the students can attempt to &quot;recreate&quot; that sign so they can understand what an animal had to do to create that marking on the landscape. Kids can act it out and demonstrate with teachers.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Guide Books''' - Teams or individuals can find signs out in the landscape and use guidebooks to try and identify the animal that left the sign.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Camouflage&diff=241 2020-04-28T18:18:47Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Our hunter gatherer ancestors lived lives that were more in tune with the natural world than we do. Their shelters were made from natural materials like sticks, leaves, bark, and mud.Their clothing was made from everything from animal skins, to grasses.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> They knew how to blend in and disappear when necessary because their lives depended on it. Accounts of European explorers first contact with indigenous peoples of the new world report that native people blended in incredibly well and were able to disappear into thin air when needed. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> To observe the best camouflage out there you need look no further than the animal kingdom. Mammals, birds, fish, and insects use camouflage! Some use it as a defense, others use it to be more effective predators. Camouflage in nature can be as simple as a pattern on the wings of a moth, and as complex as an octopus that can mimic the shape and colors of many different sea creatures.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Because of our modern lifestyle, the types and colors of clothing we wear, and the fact that we no longer live immersed in nature the way our ancestors did means we need the help of camouflage to blend in and become invisible. It can be as simple as wearing clothing in Earth tone shades and colors, or as complex as creating patterns using materials like charcoal, mud, and clay, and applying them to our clothing and bodies. We can even make custom camouflage clothing using paints and dyes.<br /> === How to Perform This Skill ===<br /> Begin by studying the camouflage of objects and creatures around you in nature. Brainstorm methods for recreating these successful patterns.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> When choosing a camouflage pattern I want the best pattern to suit the area in which I will be using it. The problem is that store-bought camouflage patterns are very generic and broad, meant to be used in specific types of environments. I can't walk into my local hunting store and say to the clerk &quot;I'm looking for a camouflage pattern that is Oregon Temperate Rainforest, early summer, creek bed, from 2-7pm&quot;. The clerk would probably laugh you out of the store! If we want to truly camouflage ourselves to WHEREVER we may find ourselves, we need to get creative, and get dirty!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The beauty about primitive, natural camouflage is that it allows us to create extremely effective patterns with simple materials that we gather from the woods around us. Once we have materials we can then literally paint the custom camouflage directly onto our bodies or onto our clothing! Its as simple as that! For a little while here we will explore the world of primitive camouflage, later on we will talk about creating your own custom camouflage on garments of our choosing!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> First off, what is the goal of camouflage? Obviously it is to hide or obscure our human form and to blend into wherever we may be. I would also add that we should be able to move freely. What do I mean by this? Anyone can go into the woods and completely cover themselves with leaves and be camouflaged, but that person is going to be stuck in that position unless they want to compromise their location. I want to pattern my camouflage in such away that I can move around to different spots on the landscape and be as hidden as possible. I need to move quietly and I also want to be able to effectively use a bow, throwing stick, or firearm. If I'm buried in the forest floor I wont be able to do these things.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Secondly, I want to take a look at the overall area I'm creating my pattern for. What are the colors and patterns I see? What is the terrain like? how is the position of the sun affecting the shadows? Pretty much any place we may be will have pools of shadow in different places as the day progresses.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I mentioned before that we need some materials if we want to create our custom camouflage patterns. Please keep in mind that you do not need to have all these things in order to create an effective camouflage pattern. Oftentimes we can get away with just having one of these things. The more materials we have the more detail, depth, and variations we can create. Here is the list:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Charcoal<br /> * Mud<br /> * Clay<br /> * Loam<br /> * Soil <br /> * Wood ash<br /> Once I have gathered my materials and made my decision as to how I am going to camouflage myself its time to start the process of applying my &quot;makeup!&quot; My first step is to dull myself down. Because most of us are not covered completely with hair and because we clean ourselves regularly, we have a shiny complexion. To get rid of the shine we apply DRY wood ash. The reason we use DRY wood ash is because wet wood ash makes lye which can give us a chemical burn. I once had a student who was obviously not paying attention when I spoke of this and immediately went to the fire pit which was wet because of a recent thunderstorm. He began to smear the paste all over his arms. Chemical burns on both your arms is not fun! As long as you apply it while it is dry and dusty it will be fine. Don't worry about your sweat or rain turning it to lye. if you just dust yourself down it wont be concentrated enough to do so. You really want to dust everything down, especially your hair. This will help to absorb light and not reflect it. One of the problems with modern camouflage clothing is that regardless of the pattern it is often printed on a shiny fabric. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After we are done dulling its time to start creating our camouflage pattern based on our assessment of the landscape. For instance, if I am in a young forest with a lot of saplings I may go with vertical stripe pattern. If there are a lot of terrain and rocks, I may make my splotches in a round shape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now I will take my mud and clay and start to apply my overall pattern. One thing about clay that is great is we can change its color and shade by adding soil, charcoal, or any other natural pigments to it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> In-between the layers of mud I will use clay and charcoal to accent the main pattern. One thing to keep in mind is that typically mud and clay will be a different shade or color when they dry. It can be a subtle change or very drastic depending on the mud or clay. Its always a good idea to do a test on your arm to see how it dries. When applying charcoal, you can use it in chunks to apply to your skin or you can crush it up and apply it that way. The crushed charcoal can be added to mud or clay to change or alter the colors.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Be sure to camouflage everywhere! It is easy to forget the back of your neck, arms, and legs. If the rest of your body is camouflaged those missed areas will stand out like a sore thumb! Get it everywhere!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After I have applied my pattern all over I will go back and blend the edges of the different colors to soften the edges. Sharp edges in your camouflage pattern will be dead give away!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next I will collect some leaves, ferns, and a pinecone if I can find them. I will use them as stencils with the mud and clay to fill in the lighter colored areas to add depth and details.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once i am satisfied with with my overall pattern I will then do what is known as the &quot;final fuzz.&quot; I will take handfuls of debris and press them all over my body. The goal is to get some of the debris to stick to you. This further helps break up the human outline and helps diffuse light. I may even gather a decent sized pile on the ground and gently roll in it. Please keep in mind to not roll aggressively because you don't want to wreck your new look!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After the final fuzz I am ready to set out on my journey. Moving through the forest this way, especially when combined with stalking and movement skills will allow you to blend in and be part of the natural world. The other beautiful thing about this natural camouflage is it helps to control our human odor which many animals find offensive. It also helps protect against biting insects.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you have camouflaged to sit in a specific spot for a long time, when choosing your resting position there are several factors to consider. How easy is it for me to see what's going on around me? Can I easily draw and shoot my bow from this position with minimal movements? If I plan on sitting here all day, how will the position of the sun cast light on this spot as the day goes on? It's also a good idea to bring a little extra charcoal and clay with you for any touch ups you may need to do. The one draw back with natural camouflage is it will wear off over time. There are more permanent solutions with natural camouflage such as mixing colors and pigments with rendered fat and applying them to your body. These will not wear off as quickly.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As with any skill the only way to get good at this lost art is to practice! Gather as many different shades of mud and clay as you can. Observe what colors they are when wet and what color shade they take on as the dry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Creating Custom Camouflage Clothing'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> We can take things a step further by creating our own custom camouflage clothing. A quick trip to the arts and crafts store can supply you with many different shades and colors of dyes and paints that we can then apply to any piece of clothing that we see fit. Typically it's good to use older garments that have some wear to them as they are not as shiny as new garments. Once again, experimentation is crucial. Buy dyes and paints that mimic the earth tones in your area and start out by dying the whole garment in whatever base color you choose. Try all different methods of application.Try everything from squirt bottles to sponges cut into the shape of leaves. Use a pine cone to roll colors on. When using these methods the sky truly is the limit.<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> '''Staging'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When working with groups and teaching camouflage, discussing your stage is important. Different areas will provide different natural materials to build into your camouflage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Hazards'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Be on the lookout for toxic or irritating plants, especially when working with children<br /> * Make sure participants do not use soaking wet wood ash to avoid chemical burns<br /> * Make sure participants are comfortable getting their clothes and equipment dirty<br /> === Working with Students ===<br /> Most students will love the idea of getting dirty, they just need a little inspiration. It is very powerful for them to see you as a teacher demonstrating camouflage techniques, and diving right in to the activity. If you hold back, they likely will do.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Some children (and adults too) will feel uncomfortable getting dirty. It is okay to encourage them and make them feel comfortable, but if they demonstrate they are absolutely not comfortable with the activity, let them know they are welcome to watch. Often times, once they see you and other students getting dirty they will want to join in. Other times, they simply may want to observe from a distance, and that's okay. Do not force anyone to apply camouflage if they are not comfortable.<br /> === Learning Outcomes &amp; Objectives ===<br /> * Creating camouflage and blending into a landscape<br /> * Recognizing natural patterns<br /> * Learning more about natural materials and pigments<br /> * Predator and prey relationships<br /> * How camouflage impacts hunting<br /> * How to pair hunting with camouflage<br /> * Awareness<br /> === Activities &amp; Games ===<br /> '''Camo Up''' - After teaching your groups the principles of camouflage, give them a set time to &quot;camo up.&quot; It could be a scenario or mission, and it could be set on a timer to see how fast they can blend in.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stealth Missions''' - Use your creativity as an instructor. Create a task or mission that students have to complete wearing full camouflage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Gear Camouflage''' - Create a gear line or area to store equipment and challenge the students to cover it up and make it blend in to the landscape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Shelter Camouflage''' - Build a shelter or camouflage an existing shelter with natural materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Competitive Games''' - Games like capture the flag, foam archery, and other classics can be paired with a story line and camouflage to create powerful experiences that connect students with nature. Be creative!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Team vs. Team''' - Make sure all teams are willingly involved and create team battles that include camouflage and deception. Story lines are very important for these activities.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Camouflage&diff=240 2020-04-28T18:18:29Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Our hunter gatherer ancestors lived lives that were more in tune with the natural world than we do. Their shelters were made from natural materials like sticks, leaves, bark, and mud.Their clothing was made from everything from animal skins, to grasses.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> They knew how to blend in and disappear when necessary because their lives depended on it. Accounts of European explorers first contact with indigenous peoples of the new world report that native people blended in incredibly well and were able to disappear into thin air when needed. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> To observe the best camouflage out there you need look no further than the animal kingdom. Mammals, birds, fish, and insects use camouflage! Some use it as a defense, others use it to be more effective predators. Camouflage in nature can be as simple as a pattern on the wings of a moth, and as complex as an octopus that can mimic the shape and colors of many different sea creatures.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Because of our modern lifestyle, the types and colors of clothing we wear, and the fact that we no longer live immersed in nature the way our ancestors did means we need the help of camouflage to blend in and become invisible. It can be as simple as wearing clothing in Earth tone shades and colors, or as complex as creating patterns using materials like charcoal, mud, and clay, and applying them to our clothing and bodies. We can even make custom camouflage clothing using paints and dyes.<br /> === How to Perform This Skill ===<br /> Begin by studying the camouflage of objects and creatures around you in nature. Brainstorm methods for recreating these successful patterns.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> When choosing a camouflage pattern I want the best pattern to suit the area in which I will be using it. The problem is that store-bought camouflage patterns are very generic and broad, meant to be used in specific types of environments. I can't walk into my local hunting store and say to the clerk &quot;I'm looking for a camouflage pattern that is Oregon Temperate Rainforest, early summer, creek bed, from 2-7pm&quot;. The clerk would probably laugh you out of the store! If we want to truly camouflage ourselves to WHEREVER we may find ourselves, we need to get creative, and get dirty!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The beauty about primitive, natural camouflage is that it allows us to create extremely effective patterns with simple materials that we gather from the woods around us. Once we have materials we can then literally paint the custom camouflage directly onto our bodies or onto our clothing! Its as simple as that! For a little while here we will explore the world of primitive camouflage, later on we will talk about creating your own custom camouflage on garments of our choosing!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> First off, what is the goal of camouflage? Obviously it is to hide or obscure our human form and to blend into wherever we may be. I would also add that we should be able to move freely. What do I mean by this? Anyone can go into the woods and completely cover themselves with leaves and be camouflaged, but that person is going to be stuck in that position unless they want to compromise their location. I want to pattern my camouflage in such away that I can move around to different spots on the landscape and be as hidden as possible. I need to move quietly and I also want to be able to effectively use a bow, throwing stick, or firearm. If I'm buried in the forest floor I wont be able to do these things.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Secondly, I want to take a look at the overall area I'm creating my pattern for. What are the colors and patterns I see? What is the terrain like? how is the position of the sun affecting the shadows? Pretty much any place we may be will have pools of shadow in different places as the day progresses.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I mentioned before that we need some materials if we want to create our custom camouflage patterns. Please keep in mind that you do not need to have all these things in order to create an effective camouflage pattern. Oftentimes we can get away with just having one of these things. The more materials we have the more detail, depth, and variations we can create. Here is the list:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Charcoal<br /> * Mud<br /> * Clay<br /> * Loam<br /> * Soil <br /> * Wood ash<br /> Once I have gathered my materials and made my decision as to how I am going to camouflage myself its time to start the process of applying my &quot;makeup!&quot; My first step is to dull myself down. Because most of us are not covered completely with hair and because we clean ourselves regularly, we have a shiny complexion. To get rid of the shine we apply DRY wood ash. The reason we use DRY wood ash is because wet wood ash makes lye which can give us a chemical burn. I once had a student who was obviously not paying attention when I spoke of this and immediately went to the fire pit which was wet because of a recent thunderstorm. He began to smear the paste all over his arms. Chemical burns on both your arms is not fun! As long as you apply it while it is dry and dusty it will be fine. Don't worry about your sweat or rain turning it to lye. if you just dust yourself down it wont be concentrated enough to do so. You really want to dust everything down, especially your hair. This will help to absorb light and not reflect it. One of the problems with modern camouflage clothing is that regardless of the pattern it is often printed on a shiny fabric. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After we are done dulling its time to start creating our camouflage pattern based on our assessment of the landscape. For instance, if I am in a young forest with a lot of saplings I may go with vertical stripe pattern. If there are a lot of terrain and rocks, I may make my splotches in a round shape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now I will take my mud and clay and start to apply my overall pattern. One thing about clay that is great is we can change its color and shade by adding soil, charcoal, or any other natural pigments to it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> In-between the layers of mud I will use clay and charcoal to accent the main pattern. One thing to keep in mind is that typically mud and clay will be a different shade or color when they dry. It can be a subtle change or very drastic depending on the mud or clay. Its always a good idea to do a test on your arm to see how it dries. When applying charcoal, you can use it in chunks to apply to your skin or you can crush it up and apply it that way. The crushed charcoal can be added to mud or clay to change or alter the colors.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Be sure to camouflage everywhere! It is easy to forget the back of your neck, arms, and legs. If the rest of your body is camouflaged those missed areas will stand out like a sore thumb! Get it everywhere!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After I have applied my pattern all over I will go back and blend the edges of the different colors to soften the edges. Sharp edges in your camouflage pattern will be dead give away!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next I will collect some leaves, ferns, and a pinecone if I can find them. I will use them as stencils with the mud and clay to fill in the lighter colored areas to add depth and details.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once i am satisfied with with my overall pattern I will then do what is known as the &quot;final fuzz.&quot; I will take handfuls of debris and press them all over my body. The goal is to get some of the debris to stick to you. This further helps break up the human outline and helps diffuse light. I may even gather a decent sized pile on the ground and gently roll in it. Please keep in mind to not roll aggressively because you don't want to wreck your new look!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After the final fuzz I am ready to set out on my journey. Moving through the forest this way, especially when combined with stalking and movement skills will allow you to blend in and be part of the natural world. The other beautiful thing about this natural camouflage is it helps to control our human odor which many animals find offensive. It also helps protect against biting insects.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you have camouflaged to sit in a specific spot for a long time, when choosing your resting position there are several factors to consider. How easy is it for me to see what's going on around me? Can I easily draw and shoot my bow from this position with minimal movements? If I plan on sitting here all day, how will the position of the sun cast light on this spot as the day goes on? It's also a good idea to bring a little extra charcoal and clay with you for any touch ups you may need to do. The one draw back with natural camouflage is it will wear off over time. There are more permanent solutions with natural camouflage such as mixing colors and pigments with rendered fat and applying them to your body. These will not wear off as quickly.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As with any skill the only way to get good at this lost art is to practice! Gather as many different shades of mud and clay as you can. Observe what colors they are when wet and what color shade they take on as the dry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Creating Custom Camouflage Clothing'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> We can take things a step further by creating our own custom camouflage clothing. A quick trip to the arts and crafts store can supply you with many different shades and colors of dyes and paints that we can then apply to any piece of clothing that we see fit. Typically it's good to use older garments that have some wear to them as they are not as shiny as new garments. Once again, experimentation is crucial. Buy dyes and paints that mimic the earth tones in your area and start out by dying the whole garment in whatever base color you choose. Try all different methods of application.Try everything from squirt bottles to sponges cut into the shape of leaves. Use a pine cone to roll colors on. When using these methods the sky truly is the limit.<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> '''Staging'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When working with groups and teaching camouflage, discussing your stage is important. Different areas will provide different natural materials to build into your camouflage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Hazards'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Be on the lookout for toxic or irritating plants, especially when working with children<br /> * Make sure participants do not use soaking wet wood ash to avoid chemical burns<br /> * Make sure participants are comfortable getting their clothes and equipment dirty<br /> === Working with Students ===<br /> Most students will love the idea of getting dirty, they just need a little inspiration. It is very powerful for them to see you as a teacher demonstrating camouflage techniques, and diving right in to the activity. If you hold back, they likely will do.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Some children (and adults too) will feel uncomfortable getting dirty. It is okay to encourage them and make them feel comfortable, but if they demonstrate they are absolutely not comfortable with the activity, let them know they are welcome to watch. Often times, once they see you and other students getting dirty they will want to join in. Other times, they simply may want to observe from a distance, and that's okay. Do not force anyone to apply camouflage if they are not comfortable.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Learning Outcomes &amp; Objectives ===<br /> * Creating camouflage and blending into a landscape<br /> * Recognizing natural patterns<br /> * Learning more about natural materials and pigments<br /> * Predator and prey relationships<br /> * How camouflage impacts hunting<br /> * How to pair hunting with camouflage<br /> * Awareness<br /> === Activities &amp; Games ===<br /> '''Camo Up''' - After teaching your groups the principles of camouflage, give them a set time to &quot;camo up.&quot; It could be a scenario or mission, and it could be set on a timer to see how fast they can blend in.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stealth Missions''' - Use your creativity as an instructor. Create a task or mission that students have to complete wearing full camouflage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Gear Camouflage''' - Create a gear line or area to store equipment and challenge the students to cover it up and make it blend in to the landscape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Shelter Camouflage''' - Build a shelter or camouflage an existing shelter with natural materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Competitive Games''' - Games like capture the flag, foam archery, and other classics can be paired with a story line and camouflage to create powerful experiences that connect students with nature. Be creative!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Team vs. Team''' - Make sure all teams are willingly involved and create team battles that include camouflage and deception. Story lines are very important for these activities.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Camouflage&diff=239 2020-04-28T18:18:11Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Our hunter gatherer ancestors lived lives that were more in tune with the natural world than we do. Their shelters were made from natural materials like sticks, leaves, bark, and mud.Their clothing was made from everything from animal skins, to grasses.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> They knew how to blend in and disappear when necessary because their lives depended on it. Accounts of European explorers first contact with indigenous peoples of the new world report that native people blended in incredibly well and were able to disappear into thin air when needed. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> To observe the best camouflage out there you need look no further than the animal kingdom. Mammals, birds, fish, and insects use camouflage! Some use it as a defense, others use it to be more effective predators. Camouflage in nature can be as simple as a pattern on the wings of a moth, and as complex as an octopus that can mimic the shape and colors of many different sea creatures.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Because of our modern lifestyle, the types and colors of clothing we wear, and the fact that we no longer live immersed in nature the way our ancestors did means we need the help of camouflage to blend in and become invisible. It can be as simple as wearing clothing in Earth tone shades and colors, or as complex as creating patterns using materials like charcoal, mud, and clay, and applying them to our clothing and bodies. We can even make custom camouflage clothing using paints and dyes.<br /> === How to Perform This Skill ===<br /> Begin by studying the camouflage of objects and creatures around you in nature. Brainstorm methods for recreating these successful patterns.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> When choosing a camouflage pattern I want the best pattern to suit the area in which I will be using it. The problem is that store-bought camouflage patterns are very generic and broad, meant to be used in specific types of environments. I can't walk into my local hunting store and say to the clerk &quot;I'm looking for a camouflage pattern that is Oregon Temperate Rainforest, early summer, creek bed, from 2-7pm&quot;. The clerk would probably laugh you out of the store! If we want to truly camouflage ourselves to WHEREVER we may find ourselves, we need to get creative, and get dirty!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The beauty about primitive, natural camouflage is that it allows us to create extremely effective patterns with simple materials that we gather from the woods around us. Once we have materials we can then literally paint the custom camouflage directly onto our bodies or onto our clothing! Its as simple as that! For a little while here we will explore the world of primitive camouflage, later on we will talk about creating your own custom camouflage on garments of our choosing!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> First off, what is the goal of camouflage? Obviously it is to hide or obscure our human form and to blend into wherever we may be. I would also add that we should be able to move freely. What do I mean by this? Anyone can go into the woods and completely cover themselves with leaves and be camouflaged, but that person is going to be stuck in that position unless they want to compromise their location. I want to pattern my camouflage in such away that I can move around to different spots on the landscape and be as hidden as possible. I need to move quietly and I also want to be able to effectively use a bow, throwing stick, or firearm. If I'm buried in the forest floor I wont be able to do these things.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Secondly, I want to take a look at the overall area I'm creating my pattern for. What are the colors and patterns I see? What is the terrain like? how is the position of the sun affecting the shadows? Pretty much any place we may be will have pools of shadow in different places as the day progresses.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> I mentioned before that we need some materials if we want to create our custom camouflage patterns. Please keep in mind that you do not need to have all these things in order to create an effective camouflage pattern. Oftentimes we can get away with just having one of these things. The more materials we have the more detail, depth, and variations we can create. Here is the list:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Charcoal<br /> * Mud<br /> * Clay<br /> * Loam<br /> * Soil <br /> * Wood ash<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once I have gathered my materials and made my decision as to how I am going to camouflage myself its time to start the process of applying my &quot;makeup!&quot; My first step is to dull myself down. Because most of us are not covered completely with hair and because we clean ourselves regularly, we have a shiny complexion. To get rid of the shine we apply DRY wood ash. The reason we use DRY wood ash is because wet wood ash makes lye which can give us a chemical burn. I once had a student who was obviously not paying attention when I spoke of this and immediately went to the fire pit which was wet because of a recent thunderstorm. He began to smear the paste all over his arms. Chemical burns on both your arms is not fun! As long as you apply it while it is dry and dusty it will be fine. Don't worry about your sweat or rain turning it to lye. if you just dust yourself down it wont be concentrated enough to do so. You really want to dust everything down, especially your hair. This will help to absorb light and not reflect it. One of the problems with modern camouflage clothing is that regardless of the pattern it is often printed on a shiny fabric. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After we are done dulling its time to start creating our camouflage pattern based on our assessment of the landscape. For instance, if I am in a young forest with a lot of saplings I may go with vertical stripe pattern. If there are a lot of terrain and rocks, I may make my splotches in a round shape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Now I will take my mud and clay and start to apply my overall pattern. One thing about clay that is great is we can change its color and shade by adding soil, charcoal, or any other natural pigments to it.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> In-between the layers of mud I will use clay and charcoal to accent the main pattern. One thing to keep in mind is that typically mud and clay will be a different shade or color when they dry. It can be a subtle change or very drastic depending on the mud or clay. Its always a good idea to do a test on your arm to see how it dries. When applying charcoal, you can use it in chunks to apply to your skin or you can crush it up and apply it that way. The crushed charcoal can be added to mud or clay to change or alter the colors.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Be sure to camouflage everywhere! It is easy to forget the back of your neck, arms, and legs. If the rest of your body is camouflaged those missed areas will stand out like a sore thumb! Get it everywhere!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After I have applied my pattern all over I will go back and blend the edges of the different colors to soften the edges. Sharp edges in your camouflage pattern will be dead give away!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Next I will collect some leaves, ferns, and a pinecone if I can find them. I will use them as stencils with the mud and clay to fill in the lighter colored areas to add depth and details.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Once i am satisfied with with my overall pattern I will then do what is known as the &quot;final fuzz.&quot; I will take handfuls of debris and press them all over my body. The goal is to get some of the debris to stick to you. This further helps break up the human outline and helps diffuse light. I may even gather a decent sized pile on the ground and gently roll in it. Please keep in mind to not roll aggressively because you don't want to wreck your new look!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> After the final fuzz I am ready to set out on my journey. Moving through the forest this way, especially when combined with stalking and movement skills will allow you to blend in and be part of the natural world. The other beautiful thing about this natural camouflage is it helps to control our human odor which many animals find offensive. It also helps protect against biting insects.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> If you have camouflaged to sit in a specific spot for a long time, when choosing your resting position there are several factors to consider. How easy is it for me to see what's going on around me? Can I easily draw and shoot my bow from this position with minimal movements? If I plan on sitting here all day, how will the position of the sun cast light on this spot as the day goes on? It's also a good idea to bring a little extra charcoal and clay with you for any touch ups you may need to do. The one draw back with natural camouflage is it will wear off over time. There are more permanent solutions with natural camouflage such as mixing colors and pigments with rendered fat and applying them to your body. These will not wear off as quickly.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> As with any skill the only way to get good at this lost art is to practice! Gather as many different shades of mud and clay as you can. Observe what colors they are when wet and what color shade they take on as the dry.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Creating Custom Camouflage Clothing'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> We can take things a step further by creating our own custom camouflage clothing. A quick trip to the arts and crafts store can supply you with many different shades and colors of dyes and paints that we can then apply to any piece of clothing that we see fit. Typically it's good to use older garments that have some wear to them as they are not as shiny as new garments. Once again, experimentation is crucial. Buy dyes and paints that mimic the earth tones in your area and start out by dying the whole garment in whatever base color you choose. Try all different methods of application.Try everything from squirt bottles to sponges cut into the shape of leaves. Use a pine cone to roll colors on. When using these methods the sky truly is the limit.<br /> === Hazards and Staging ===<br /> '''Staging'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When working with groups and teaching camouflage, discussing your stage is important. Different areas will provide different natural materials to build into your camouflage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Hazards'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Be on the lookout for toxic or irritating plants, especially when working with children<br /> * Make sure participants do not use soaking wet wood ash to avoid chemical burns<br /> * Make sure participants are comfortable getting their clothes and equipment dirty<br /> === Working with Students ===<br /> Most students will love the idea of getting dirty, they just need a little inspiration. It is very powerful for them to see you as a teacher demonstrating camouflage techniques, and diving right in to the activity. If you hold back, they likely will do.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Some children (and adults too) will feel uncomfortable getting dirty. It is okay to encourage them and make them feel comfortable, but if they demonstrate they are absolutely not comfortable with the activity, let them know they are welcome to watch. Often times, once they see you and other students getting dirty they will want to join in. Other times, they simply may want to observe from a distance, and that's okay. Do not force anyone to apply camouflage if they are not comfortable.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Learning Outcomes &amp; Objectives ===<br /> * Creating camouflage and blending into a landscape<br /> * Recognizing natural patterns<br /> * Learning more about natural materials and pigments<br /> * Predator and prey relationships<br /> * How camouflage impacts hunting<br /> * How to pair hunting with camouflage<br /> * Awareness<br /> === Activities &amp; Games ===<br /> '''Camo Up''' - After teaching your groups the principles of camouflage, give them a set time to &quot;camo up.&quot; It could be a scenario or mission, and it could be set on a timer to see how fast they can blend in.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stealth Missions''' - Use your creativity as an instructor. Create a task or mission that students have to complete wearing full camouflage.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Gear Camouflage''' - Create a gear line or area to store equipment and challenge the students to cover it up and make it blend in to the landscape.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Shelter Camouflage''' - Build a shelter or camouflage an existing shelter with natural materials.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Competitive Games''' - Games like capture the flag, foam archery, and other classics can be paired with a story line and camouflage to create powerful experiences that connect students with nature. Be creative!<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Team vs. Team''' - Make sure all teams are willingly involved and create team battles that include camouflage and deception. Story lines are very important for these activities.</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Archery&diff=238 2020-04-28T17:38:09Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction and History ===<br /> Archery is a tool invented by ancient peoples dating back to neolithic times. The earliest known evidence of a bow and arrow being used was between 60,000 and 70,000 years ago from a cave in South Africa called Sibudu Cave where flint knapped arrowheads were found. The earliest remains of bow and arrow were from Europe. Possible bow and arrow fragments from Germany were found at Mannheim-Vogelstang and dated to 17,500-18,000 years ago. Archery was originally used for hunting. It later evolved into a combat tool, today archery is used as a recreational activity. The Bow and Arrow are an evolutionary step up from another projectile called the Atlatl.<br /> === Doing Archery with Children ===<br /> Archery is one of the most popular skills we teach at Trackers. Almost all of our programs have or can use archery in some form or another, whether it be target shooting with the Rangers or bow fishing with the Mariners. It is a useful skill to learn and easy to get engaged with. Archery can be used with all age groups, from Rovers to our oldest 6th-10th grade groups. Most kids will be excited to use a bow, however some may be a bit nervous, bows can be dangerous! Remind your students that it is completely safe as long as they PAY ATTENTION and follow the range rules which we will talk about shortly. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When it comes to teaching archery, Some ages like 4 and 5 year olds will be more or less capable of shooting a bow. Saying that some of the 2nd and 3rd graders may have trouble, or even the 6th through 10th graders. Just like the children shooting those bows, you must have patience with your children as they are learning the proper technique, for some of our kids this may be their first time shooting a bow! Support them by reminding them the rules of the range. If you are worried about them not paying attention or being safe with the equipment, it is OKAY to have them sit out for a turn or two. Remind them that archery is a gift, not a need, and that bows are tools, not a toy. While they are still learning the proper use of a bow, have them shoot using the 3 step system, Knock, Draw, Loose. We call this an Arrow Volley and we will discuss the use of it further down. This goes for all age groups and when both of these techniques are used, it can lead to a fun and successful program for you and your team.<br /> === Getting Started ===<br /> When using an archery range there are a few set up procedures you should follow. Before you grab gear in the morning, inspect it.<br /> Make sure there are no damaged arrows! A damaged arrow can splinter and break when fired and can hurt the archer. Check for cracks, chips, bends, or broken arrows.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Check bows, make sure the string is not frayed and is securely mounted on the bow.<br /> First - Scout the range, make sure there are no other groups behind the range and that it is clear of debris that could hurt the kids, like glass, broken arrows, or widow makers.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Second - Set up your firing line. This is where the children will be shooting from and the boundary that they cannot cross while the range is “hot”.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Third - Brief your children on the rules of the range. It is important to do this BEFORE you hand them a bow. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Rules of the Range are:<br /> * Arrows must alway point down range when knocked. Never behind a student or pointing towards another.<br /> * You must fire from the same firing line.<br /> * When you are done firing, lay down your bow. This is so you know when everyone is done shooting.<br /> * No running on the range.<br /> * Only fire when the range is hot.<br /> * Follow the range commands.<br /> * The bouquet of death - this means you carry your arrows back to the firing line by holding them by the tip. Making the fletching look like flowers.<br /> * When using multiple ranges with other teams, make sure you do not call range clear while they are still firing. Though the ranges are separated, there is always the chance that a stray arrow may fly into your range. Work with other instructors while using archery ranges.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''What are the range commands? Great question! These are the range commands''':<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> *Hold! - When you say “HOLD” all participants must cease fire. You use this when a child is handling a bow in an unsafe manner or you must focus on one child to correct their form.<br /> * Range Hot! - You shout this command to let everyone know that there is no one on the range and it is safe to fire.<br /> * Range Cold/Range Clear! - This is shouted when all arrows have been fired.<br /> * Walk and Retrieve your arrows - This is said right after Range Clear, it is a reminder that we walk on the range for our safety and so we don’t break any arrows.<br /> '''Arrow Volley Commands''' - Use these to control when your team performs an action, they cannot move unless you say these commands. They go as follows.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> * Knock - Loading an arrow on the bow.<br /> * Draw - Pull the string back and hold.<br /> * Loose - Fire your arrows!!<br /> * Fire at Will - This will be used after you have gauged the skill level of your archers and you can let them fire at their own pace. If you are starting with a completely new group, ALWAYS START WITH AN ARROW VOLLEY.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> ''These commands are very important and should be used every time you use an archery range.''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Once these rules are established, then you may get your bows and arrows and begin setting up. When setting up targets, you can use any of the foam targets we have available, or you can use the hay bales at site, or set up punky logs and branches as targets. In hovel areas you can also prepare for the day by making targets. Using crayons or markers to let the kids draw monsters or point system games to use during your archery activity.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> It is also possible to teach your kids how to string a bow!<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> === Activities ===<br /> Even though Archery is an activity to respect, there are a few games you can play with your team. Here are some examples:<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Alien Attack!''' - For this game set up 4 or 5 targets at some distance away. One will be noticeably bigger than the others. The bigger one is the mother ship and the rest are the aliens. Every round the archers must hit a target. If a target is not hit, it will move closer. If one of the aliens is hit before the mother ship is taken down, then it will respawn at its starting point. The goal of this game is to knock over the mother ship and then the aliens. This game teaches team work as the archers can plan their attacks on the aliens and it helps them figure out accuracy. Its also super fun if you turn it into a story!<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Tic-Tac-Toe''' - This game plays exactly how you think, however for this one when you shoot a square you claim it as your own. Therefore if someone else accidentally shoots the same square they cannot take it from you. The goal, just like regular tic-tac-toe is to get three in a row. The winner gets a crisp high five! To set up you can either use a grid the kids made in your hovel time OR by using sticks and branches from the surrounding woods. This game teaches accuracy and patience along with good sportsmanship!<br /> '''To be continued'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> === Staging and Cleanup ===<br /> Archery is a projectile sport, so be sure make sure leading this activity is permitted at each location you visit.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Clean Up'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As with any activity and site we use, it is good practice to leave a site looking better than you found it. This goes for gear too!<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> When cleaning up the range, check for:<br /> * Forgotten arrows<br /> * The range is clear of scrappy junk. <br /> * Remove targets used that look as if they cannot be used any more <br /> * Straighten out the firing line.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> As for gear, put arrows back in the quiver you brought out tip first, the fletching should be seen from the top of the quiver. Keep broken arrows separate from the main quiver and give them to your coordinator to take care of or repair. When taking down the bows, take the string of of one end of the bow but leave the loop still attached to the bow, this way the string doesn’t get tangled at the bottom of the bag. Wrap the string around the bow and then place the bow in the bag with the loose end point down into the bag. The tied end should be at the top. Once all bows and arrows have been properly put away. Store the bow bags in there proper place. <br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Note: it is also ok to coordinate with your team on using the bows so that they are just handed off to the next team instead of being put away. It then becomes the last teams responsibility to put the bows where they belong.<br /> <br /> '''Advanced Archery skills documents:'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Bow Making]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Arrow Making]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Advanced Archery Techniques]]<br /> &lt;br&gt;</div>

Ryan http://wiki.trackersearth.com/w/index.php?title=Kayaking&diff=237 2020-04-24T19:43:19Z

<p>Ryan: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Introduction ===<br /> Kayaks are like the bicycles of the water. With a little bit of logistical effort you have a vessel that can take you to farther away places. If you can find a good place to make landfall you can make your group feel like you have traveled to magical distant lands where unknown treasures can be found. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> From as far back as 4,000 years ago indigenous people from arctic regions of North America, Siberia, and Greenland have used kayaks for hunting various creatures in open water for everything from small fish to humpback whales. The word kayak comes from the Greenland Eskimo word ‘qayak’. The oldest kayaks were built using drift wood frames and animal skins from seals and sea lions. Many other animal parts have been used to create kayaks including whale bones for frames and inflated seal bladders were added inside the bow and stern for buoyancy. The sleek design of a kayak allows it to go into shallow water, disembark on many types of shores, and remain stable in high seas. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> When students arrive you should start with your why for the day. For example, “today we are going to hunt for precious stones on an island unreachable by land and we are embarking on this quest from Molalla State Park.” Much better than, “today we are Kayaking at Molalla. Kayaks are a means to the end, it will be easier to get through all of the necessary safety and logistics with them if they have a fun objective in mind.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Learning Outcomes &amp; Objectives ===<br /> Participants can safely maneuver a kayak on the water<br /> Participants understand the purpose of and use safety equipment appropriately. This includes PFDs, bilge pumps, and spray skirts<br /> Participants feel comfortable on the water and feel like they are empowered to travel in marine environments<br /> Participants can adapt to environmental conditions (rain, wind, waves, tides)<br /> Participants have awareness of marine traffic<br /> Participants can use paddle signals to communicate on the water<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> The modern idea of kayaks is inspired by traditional boats used for hunting. There are different types of kayaks designed for different purposes. We have flat water kayaks that are designed to be comfortable for day use and have some cargo capacity. River kayaks are shorter and more nimble for navigating tight spaces. Touring kayaks can be streamlined for long distance efficiency and have more storage space. Kayaks are quite different than canoes. Kayaks ride lower to the water so they can travel long distances quickly with stability. Compared to canoes they have less visibility, less gear storage, and typically only hold 1-3 passengers.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Kayaking can be done with students age 10 and up but pay close attention to wiggly folks of all ages. Kayaking is best done in smaller groups (don’t supergroup) so that you can stay close or at least communicate together and provide support for those that need it. Be aware that kayaking can easily turn into a herding cats situation so set your boundaries clearly based on your group.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> Selecting a place to paddle is critical for this to be a successful activity. Check the weather report in advance and have multiple options available that take into account the questions below. Understanding the launch area can make a big difference in timing for moving gear and getting in and out of kayaks. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Questions to ask:'''<br /> *What is the weather? Winds, rain, currents, current water levels. <br /> * What is the history of the site? How can we connect students to the story of the social, political, economic, and environmental factors at this body of water?<br /> * What is the below water topography? Is there a shallow shoreline along your launch site where you can easily bail if someone does fall into the water?<br /> * What is the above water topography? Where are sheltered areas from weather on and off the water, points of interest?<br /> * What is the distance from camp and HQ etc.?<br /> * Can you drive down to the water?<br /> * Is there any place that you can paddle to and get out to shore to make them feel like they’ve reached a remote location?<br /> * How many boats can launch at the same time?<br /> * Will there be a lot of other users of your launch site or the body of water at the particular time and date of your program?<br /> === Gear: ===<br /> * Full water jug<br /> * Vessels (appropriate # / sizes)<br /> * Paddles (appropriate # / sizes)<br /> * PFD’s (appropriate # / sizes)<br /> * Spray skirts (weather and age dependent)<br /> * Bilge Pumps<br /> * Sponges<br /> * Tow rope (1 per instructor)<br /> * Throw ropes (2 per instructor, can be used for games)<br /> * Stocked Medical Kit <br /> * Sunscreen<br /> * Charged/Working Walkie Talkies<br /> * Gas tank above ½<br /> * Location maps<br /> * Relevant site permits<br /> * Wildlife guides<br /> === Getting Started once you arrive on site: ===<br /> #Final bathroom and water check before you put all the gear on!<br /> # Unload the kayaks to an out of the way loading area, place the paddles nearby and tuck away the straps in the van<br /> # Make sure any personal gear is locked in the van or loaded into dry bags<br /> # Put on spray skirts and PFD’s, adjust the fit if necessary<br /> # Give the whole group the Mission Critical Information<br /> # Load and launch the group! Stay safe and hydrated out there!<br /> # Give paddling tips, tell stories, and play games!<br /> # Upon return, unload the kayaks and put spray skirts, paddles, and PFD’s back in the van<br /> # Load the trailer with boats, triple check all the straps, and head back for pickup!<br /> # When you arrive on site, have the students help hang or clean gear!<br /> === Fitting Personal Floatation Devices &amp; Spray skirts ===<br /> '''Spray skirt:''' The purpose of our spray skirts is to keep water and sun from getting inside which prevent cold and sun injuries. For the inuit people a wet exit meant death so keeping the water tight seal was mission critical, while our skirts are not designed to stay watertight for Esimo Rolls they still provide comfort on really rainy or sunny days.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Wearing your skirt:''' Spray skirts are worn on top of any clothing layers and before PFD. The part where the skirt flares out should line up with the bottom of the PFD, often this means that the bungee cord on top will be above the chest- much higher than most think! If it is too low water can pool in the skirt which can make it harder to stay dry. <br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''PFD:''' Make sure that each student gets the right size. Tighten straps and pull up on the shoulder straps to make sure that the vest will stay on in the event that they fall in the water.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> === Paddle Instruction ===<br /> Give only mission critical information on the shore and try to structure information in steps out on the water so that students retain information.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Mission Critical:'''<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Taking Care of Gear''': It is important for the environment and our community to take care of gear. If we damage these plastic boats and paddles they have to be replaced and lots of energy goes into making them. Carry boats over concrete / rocks rather than dragging them, ask a buddy to help you push off from shore rather than pushing with your paddle because they can break. Do your best to keep mud out of the kayak and on your PFD (this also helps limit the spread of invasive species!), you are responsible for cleaning things up afterwards.<br /> Stay in your kayak: kayaks like ours are built for stability even on rough water, please stay seated upright and if you want to pick up anything in the water make sure that it is within a few inches of your boat so that you don’t need to reach out very far to pick it up. If you lean very far to the side, you may end up going for a swim. Ask the participants if anyone is going to try to hit anyone (No!), ask if someone is going to hit someone else with their boat (Yes!). It’s okay to bump into other boats at low speeds especially not head on, if you are going to hit someone give them a heads up as you try to turn and/or slow yourself. If someone is about to hit you can use your hands to nudge their boat away, DO NOT hit other people or boats with your paddle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> In warm weather there may be times when students can get out of their boats but they should start by focusing on staying in.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''What happens if you fall out'''?: stay calm, hold onto the handle at the bow or stern of your boat and your paddle. DO NOT try to crawl onto your boat, it will fill with water and will be very difficult to get the water out and you back in. With the help of a friend, instructor or the shore we’ll get you back in the boat. Try to get as much water out of the kayak before you get the person back in. Instructors will make a decision in the moment to either go to shore or do a T-rescue.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''With a spray skirt''': before loading have the students find their “loop of life” practice punching away and pulling up. Remind them that anytime they put their spray skirt on their cockpit the loop must be on the OUTSIDE.<br /> &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Communicating on the water''': have students address challenges / opportunities for communicating on the water (at times easier or harder to hear others depending on the weather, getting spread apart. Demonstrate each and then test the group by calling them out and having them show. See paddle signs below. <br /> Pods: Whales travel in a pod. So do kayakers. If you think your group will have trouble staying together, appoint a point, sweep, and wings to keep everyone together. Point boat in the front, sweep in the back and two wings with all of the rest of the boats somewhere in the diamond created by those four boats. For younger groups you can have them collect sticks to make a model on the ground or have everyone stand in formation.<br /> <br /> Stop Go that way I’m okay / Are you okay?<br /> <br /> Gather! Pod up Help! Universal SOS<br /> <br /> Doing it right: These can be taught in the moment or given as tips on the water. Come up with your own memorable and funny metaphors for physical cues that make sense to you so that the students will remember.<br /> Sitting in a kayak / footpegs: Butt all the way back in the seat so that they are sitting up straight, knees and toes facing out with toes on the footpegs- sit like a frog! Adjust these for smaller students and teach bigger kids on the shore by sitting in kayaks before you get on the water if they are not on rocky terrain. Pegs can be adjusted by pinching the clip and sliding fore or aft, be careful not to slide them off the back or front of the tracks as they can be a nuisance to put back on. If you are slouched you will not be able to use your core muscles and will paddle slower.<br /> Holding a paddle: hands wider than shoulder width apart, loose grip with your hands (like cradling a baby bird) so that you don’t get any blisters, leave (a beach ball sized) space between your tummy and the paddle. Maintain this frame with your arms so you use your whole body and not just t-rex arms to paddle. Long part of the blade should be at the top, short part on the bottom with the scoop facing you.<br /> Paddling: <br /> Forward: blade in at your toes, twist your whole torso to bring the blade to your hips. Do it all on the other side. Use your abs to twist!<br /> Pro tips: the most powerful part of the stroke is by your hips, so make sure you’re taking nice long strokes. You can cue this by having them pretend to look at a watch on each wrist each stroke, this should also help them engage their core. Can also cue this by pretending that there is a bar connecting the middle of the paddle with their belly button.<br /> Backward: blade in at your hips, push to your toes, keep the paddle facing the same direction as when they go forward.<br /> Stopping: quick back paddle on both sides, if you do it just on one side then you just turn.<br /> Turning: While moving forward you can turn in many ways like paddling more on the opposite side that you want to turn or bracing your paddle on the side you want to turn to by placing the paddle in the water by your stern- you can adjust the angle of the paddle for the sharpness of your turn. Turning without momentum is done by making big ‘C’ or ‘D’ shaped strokes, reaching out far away from the kayak. These turning strokes can go all the way from the bow to stern or stern to bow depending on how sharply you want to turn. Forward on the left to go right, forward on the right to go left. To turn all the way around, forward stroke on one side and back paddle on the other.<br /> Pro tip: if you have speed you can turn with a gentle tilt of the hips, not advised for little kids.<br /> <br /> Gear care trailer loading/unloading: <br /> Trailer loading and unloading is half of our camp. We use PFD’s and straps to keep us alive, please keep these off the ground as much as possible. When they come off the trailer the PFD’s should go on our bodies and the straps should go in the van. Regardless of the toughness of the boats, boats should be put on the ground kindly, they should never be dragged and they should be treated as a limb rather than a replaceable object. This is a great example and lesson for kids, lead this by prime example. Never leave gear exposed on the trailer when we get boats on the water, put excess gear in the van. <br /> <br /> When putting boats back on the trailer, we need to be 100% positive that they are on correctly and tight. When you drive and you see a boat strap that seems loose, pull over and check. It's not worth the “maybe...” that the boats could come off mid drive. <br /> <br /> Loading and Launching and Unloading:<br /> Key principles:<br /> NEVER stand in a kayak - if you are on land it is bad for the boat, on the water you are SUPER tippy<br /> Teach everyone to help each other to make this process quicker, everyone should help each other stabilize for getting in and out<br /> Adjust footpegs while launching as it can be more difficult to do on the water<br /> Designate a gathering location to raft up while everyone gets on the water<br /> The smaller the person the easier it is to help them load without them tipping so pay attention to taller or heavier participants<br /> If you are wearing spray skirts have helpers stretch the back around the cockpit and once the back is secure the kayaker can grab the skirt by their hips and slide their hands around the edge of the cockpit to secure it, ending with the center and making sure that they can easily reach their loop of life<br /> Be efficient, more time on the water and good for other folks sharing your site<br /> <br /> From a floating dock:<br /> The kayaker should sit on the dock next to the cockpit, swing their legs in, grab onto both sides of the cockpit and slide their butt over and find their footpegs. You or another buddy can hold the bow edge of the cockpit to stabilize their boat, press down on the side close to the dock.<br /> Helpers can help them attach their spray skirt from the dock.<br /> To unload, both hands on the dock and try to get as much of your belly and torso on the dock as possible and then scoot to sit up. Pull your boat out, move it out of the way and help the next person unload.<br /> <br /> From a kayak launch: (a ramp with handrails and wheels so that a kayaker can launch themself)<br /> Even though kayak launches are designed to be used alone it is still helpful to have someone support by holding the boat so it doesn’t slide (like while the kayaker makes any last minute foot peg adjustments) and can be handy for push off- especially for little ones<br /> Helper can sit on the back to attach spray skirt before launching<br /> To unload get as much speed as you can to get up the ramp, use the handrails to pull yourself up. Step out, get your boat out of the way and help the next person.<br /> <br /> From a boat ramp / shoreline:<br /> Carry the boat to waters edge and place the bow in the water until the cockpit is at least partially over the water, the kayaker should enter bum first and then put their feet in<br /> Helper can sit on the back to attach spray skirt before launching and give them a good push to send them on their way.<br /> To unload, if on mud or sand come in perpendicular to the shore as quickly as possible. If on concrete, float your boat parallel to the edge so that you don’t scrape the bottom. Step out on the shallow edge. <br /> <br /> Water Safety hazards and mitigation: (Do this with students!):<br /> Water related injuries- like drowning- stay calm and stay upright<br /> Cold- water and air- the water is probably cold, don’t go in it on cool days and get dry quickly if it isn’t warm out<br /> Stranger danger- parking lots, bathrooms, it is easy to get focused on the task at hand and not pay attention to the public<br /> Sketchy trash- common in and on the edges of water, especially fishing gear. Don’t touch it if it seems potentially hazardous.<br /> Shoes- going barefoot is a call on the teachers. If the water is murky, muddy, a fisherman spot, shore full of sticks etc., decide to have kids keep their shoes on while on land. If the shore is sandy, smooth and see through, it is okay to allow them to take their shoes off. At some sites there are stumps under the water you don’t want to hit or get caught on<br /> PFDs: Kids never ever go without a PFD in the water past their knees. Ever. This protects them BUT mostly protects you. Take this seriously.<br /> Boat traffic: You are the baby ducks in the pond. Stay out of the way of other vessels, sticking close to the shoreline tends to be more interesting and safer. If you are making a crossing go as a tight pod rather than a string of single file boats that completely block the path of others.<br /> Wakes and waves: Go perpendicular to waves and wakes. This can be super fun. Getting knocked over by a parallel wave is not. Pay attention.<br /> <br /> Parts of a kayak:<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> T-Rescue:<br /> The point of this method is to place the flipped kayak over yours (making sure the cockpit isn't over yours) and rocking it up and down so all the water can pour out over the sides. When it is pretty empty, flip it back up right over your boat and take it off your kayak placing it parallel to yours holding the cockpit next to yours. Tuck paddles into the bungees and strings on your kayak on the far side so that they don’t get in the way. Holding the other boat allows the person in the water to get back in by going to the back and popping up like you would on a surfboard, then straddling up the kayak and scooting to the cockpit. Boom! Rescue done.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Etiquette at Sites<br /> The definition of etiquette is this; the customary code of polite behavior in society or among members of a particular profession or group. Trackers has a good relationship with all of these sites. We have spent time making these relationships good by being respectful, communicative, cleaning up after ourselves and others. Through etiquette, we connect more than we could with a place if we didn’t use it. It is important to teach this to your kids too to read a space or a situation and know how to interact with it. We love these locations and we care for them, take care of these sites and they will take care of you.<br /> <br /> Activities: Getting to a destination is often our main objective of kayaking but at Trackers it is so much more! These activities can improve technique, keep things interesting, engage for groups of varied skill and fitness, and be flexible in different conditions. They can be woven into a story- like needing to earn clues for the destination by creating letters with the group.<br /> Sit spot: find a calm area with some lovely nature where you won’t drift away and you can see everyone. Listen, look, feel.<br /> 360° Spin: Teach ‘D’ strokes, demonstrate and have the students practice before engaging in a friendly competition. Can also be done as a team: first and second face each other so their shoulders are square, when both teams are ready the first person spins until their shoulders are square again, they must spin 1 and a half times until they are square with the third person and so on.<br /> I touched the butt! (this is a Finding Nemo reference) Tag in kayaks. Set boundaries, remind them about not ramming into each other.<br /> Grab a Whale by its Tail: High tipping hazard, better for competent groups or warm days. Tuck something that floats (can be a throw rope bag) under the bungees underneath the bungees at the stern of one or more kayaks. Give the whale a head start and then let everyone loose to try to capture. Whoever gets it is it next. Set clear boundaries, if the whale is driven outside the person closest is it next. Remind them about not ramming into each other.<br /> Aquatic Hockey Stops aka Parallel Parking aka Raft Up: Being able to turn 90 degrees and land where you want is a great skill, especially for unloading at some locations or for picking things up in the water. This is also good for passing the time while boats are loading or to gather groups that spread apart easily. Demonstrate by paddling hard to get momentum and then bracing on one side and kicking out your paddle to turn yourself 90°. Challenge the next student to try to place their body as close to you as possible, they won't need to start turning until their bow is quite close to your boat. If there is no specific destination to stop it can be helpful to give a specific number of strong strokes before turning so that they have enough momentum. You can also have them practice pulling up alongside a dock if one is handy or use something floaty like a ball to have them retrieve. Once they are competent you can call “Raft up!” at any time and challenge them to do so quickly. Bonus points for all facing the same direction, alternating the direction of each boat, etc.<br /> Alphabet game: Depending on the number of boats you have you can either work as a whole team or as two groups to try to form letters and numbers with your boats. If you’re having trouble picturing this, think about the numbers on the clock on an oven and consider each line a boat. Select numbers and letters according to the size of your group.<br /> Whirlpool: Have you encountered the kraken or other aquatic foe out there? Try to trap them in a whirlpool by having your group all travel in a circle together. Not working effectively? Try reversing the direction.<br /> Pirates Booty: Only for the trusted kayaking crews. Designate one kayak (maybe yours) as the treasure boat. Have everyone pair up and have one person from each pair blindfold themselves. The sighted member of the pair cannot touch their partner, only direct them verbally, and you can decide whether or not they are allowed to move too. Set clear boundaries, remind them about not ramming into each other and tell them that if anyone says “HOLD!” that means that they should try to stop themselves in place and take off their blindfold.Place the treasure strategically and let the treasure hunt begin. Level 1: stationary treasure. Level 2: mobile treasure. Level 3: cannot use words to communicate (give time for the partners plot animal sounds/whistles/etc. for left/right/etc.).<br /> Yak Yak the Game: This is classic hide and seek but with a kayak. Pick a kayak that is the closest color to the water. (for example not yellow or orange, but maybe green or blue). The hider gets 2 mins to go hide themselves in areas in the water that is covered by plants(while they hide, one instructor is in the water watching to know where they are for safety reasons), then once they find a hiding spot, they hide out in the kayak and lean low in the boat. Once the 2 mins is up, the hunter gets in there kayak and gets 3 minutes to find the one hiding. Once the time is up the game is over and you can switch kids to play the next round. This is a quick game and can challenge stealth and awareness.<br /> Kayak Archery: Pick a spot to make a target, somewhere well staged so you can receive arrows easily and aren't endangering people or animals. The shooter in the kayak will get a waterproof quiver with foam arrows inside. Set up a course depending on the site and have them shoot at targets from at least 10 feet away. This is a self explanatory game so have fun with it! Make it up as you go. Just make sure it's fair and kids wanting to participate can.<br /> Snorkeling with Kayaks: This is ALL about well staging and teamwork. In the first image to the left it demonstrates how three canoes are creating a triangle formation with a person in the middle about to snorkel. If you choose to use masks in an open area where you cannot touch the bottom it is absolutely required that others are there with kayaks creating a ring(could be 3, could be all 15) so safety measures are met. If a kid wants to snorkel on his or her own in an area where you can easily touch the bottom and is calm enough to see that is fine if they take their kayak with them on a short rope(Paddle included). This teaches them a companionship with their vessel of transportation. (They are being watched at all times by the instructor who is ready to assist when needed.)<br /> Expedition Scenarios: For older groups not so into games, set up an epic expedition scenario to teach about risk management, wilderness medicine and decision making. Begin with a preface like, “you are on the 5th day of a 10 day trip in the backcountry of….And you are headed... And one of your group just got stung by bees and reacted…” Once they decide on a course of action, begin your kayaking adventure, along the way give other updates about changing conditions. These could be about people or critters that you encounter along the way, medical issues, weather changes, gear problems, etc.</div>

Ryan